Day 19: Lewis & Clark SP, Olympia

I'll start off with a couple corrections/updates. A friendly person commented that the tourer, Neal, I ran into has a blog URL of http://www.NealBikestheUSA.wordpress.com/, and I'm on it! Also, yesterday I got a couple great glimpses of Mt. St. Helens in the distance, what an impressive sight! Snow covered and a bit ominous, it definitely makes the list of future visits.

Today started off great at camp. I had gone to bed late and therefore didn't rise until 9:30, but I wasn't planning on another 97 miles so I could afford a little leisure. I hiked the Old Growth Trail and the Trail of the Deer, both of which were full of lush ferns and large firs. There was also a stark reminder of the value of preserved lands as I came to the park boundary and found the land adjacent had been clear-cut. It certainly made for an interesting picture.

Waking up in a forest and walking the trails was a reminder of how much I enjoyed the first week and a half of camping. Camping in WA has given me a few surprises as well as comforts. There are far more critters than in other sights. I had to put long pants on ASAP to avoid mosquitoes, there were small spiders all over the place, a slug drew slime patterns on my tent, and a chipmunk had the chutzpa to scamper onto the picnic table right next to me and would have taken off with my banana bread had I not scared him off.

It was an absolutely gorgeous day, finally, and I biked through Chehalis and Centralia which were both very cute towns with a lot of charm. I stopped for a snack in Centralia where I got my first whistle as I sat down on a street bench. I got two more whistles near the Olympia airport when I stopped for water. Watch out Steph, I just might get picked up by one of these guys.

Olympia bills itself as one of the most beautiful state capitals and I can see why. From the capitol building one can see Puget Sound, the Olympic Mountains, and even the tip of Mt. Rainier (which made the "to visit" list as well). A few blocks away is the Fish Tale Brewpub where I had a porter and organic chicken shawarma, followed by a taster set of Amber, Oatmeal Stout, Double IPA, and pear cider. The IPA and cider were my favorites.

A quick 13 miles brought me to Riverbend Campground where, due to a few sprinkles, I decided to finally try setting up my tent fly first. My tent, being lightweight, is almost all mesh, so if it's pouring I don't want to set it up before the fly or the interior will be soaked. With a footprint (basically a tarp cut to the right size and with grommets), I can set up the poles first, put the fly on, then build the tent inside. Everything worked great and soon I was having a meal and a shower.

I received a comment that there has been a lack of sunset pictures, and mostly for good reason. I've been staying at a lot of parks with tall trees and haven't been able to see most. Also, the sky has been cloudy most nights, reducing the visibility, and some nights I've been too tired to even think about it. But coming into camp tonight I had a great view of Mt. Rainier with the sun setting on it. The pic doesn't do it justice, for it was magnificent.

Tomorrow should bring me to Seattle where I'm excited to do some exploring, rain or shine!

P.S. I topped 1000 miles today! That means an average of just over 52 miles per day. Seattle will knock that down a little but I'm feeling really good about the pace so far!

Day 18: Into Washington!

I woke up this morning to say goodbye to Steph as she headed back to the Bay. I'm not sure how long it'll be before we see each other again, but at least over three weeks so it was a little emotional. After falling asleep again (let's be sensible, I'm not starting my day at 4:45 unless it's absolutely necessary) I woke up at a reasonable hour and packed up. This morning was the first morning in almost two weeks that I haven't woken up with neck pain, and I'm certain it's due to a particular person having been by my side day and night for the past few days.

I set out for Castle Rock, WA, roughly 75 miles away. After a pit stop at Fedex to fax a health insurance form, I was on my way towards my third state of the trip. Portland has been great, and leaving was made harder by the smell of wort emanating from Bridgeport Brewing as I rode by. I ran into Neal who is on Day 2 of many to come as he rides the Lewis and Clark trail to Connecticut. We exchanged blogs, but now I can't seem to find his, and he seemed amused by the name of mine. Throughout the day I would see a total of 8 tourers, all going south.

As Neal promised, the town of St. Helens was unremarkable, they don't even allow bikes in the river front park! But that's where I refueled on bread, cheese, honey, jerky, and a carrot. It's also where I put on my jorts, erroneously thinking it was close to the bridge I would take into Washington.

As I crossed the Lewis and Clark Bridge they were painting some of it and had drop cloths on a couple sections. Lucky me to inhale some bridge paint! I kept my eyes peeled for the state sign in order to claim credit for a couple challenges, but I was disappointed. Furthermore, there was no welcome sign when I reached Longview on the other side! What kind of state doesn't have a welcome sign?! Better question, why did I wear the jorts another 10 miles? I guess I'll have to get the WA sign on the Idaho border.

I got to Castle Rock, my camping destination, around 4:30 and said hell no am I stopping with so much daylight. A quick search suggested Lewis and Clark State Park. I decided to go for it, feeling good with the legs and energy level. Along the way I had a couple dogs chase me which was a first. I've had a couple dozen barks so far but never a chase. The first seemed harmless enough but a little later down the road I had two more chase me and they seemed angry. Not much has gotten my adrenaline up quite as much as that, but I was able to pull away after some hard cranking.

Upon arriving at L&C SP and claiming the only H/B site, I looked down to find 97.75 miles on the odometer! Another record day! Believe me, I was tempted to ride in circles around the campground to reach 100 but a shower and meal won the mental battle and I settled for the night.

My legs are a little sore but overall I feel pretty good considering how far I just rode. A filling meal, hot coco, and now I'm writing this by my first campfire in too long. It's always nice to finish any ride with a shower and fire, great way to keep morale up. Looks like I'll get to Seattle a little faster than expected!

Days 15-17: Portland, Steph, Family

I took another blogging break to spend some quality time with Steph since she flew up to visit. She arrived Saturday around noon, while I compulsively checked the driveway for her car. She came up the walkway and we were both smiles, so great to see her after two weeks of nothing but a voice on the other line. We got ready and hit downtown Portland for a "surprise" at 2:45. My suspicions were correct, Steph got me a one hour deep tissue massage! The masseuse was great and I felt so much better after! My neck has been really sore and in pain when I'm sleeping so she worked on that for a bit, but what really felt great were my legs. They were so much looser and relaxed! I glided down the stairs and met with Steph to go have a beer with her friend Ross.

After a visit to North 45 for beers we bounced on down to Rogue's brew pub and had tasters and food. The fish and chips were great, as was the pasta I ate which had a sauce made with their Chipotle Ale. The weather was pretty funky and we lucked out with our timing, five minutes after moving inside there was thunder, lightning, and torrential downpour, until we were ready to leave at which point it had cleared up!

Sunday morning we met up with Steph's friends Chrissy and Adam at the Mikwaukie farmer's market. Some browsing around led us to fresh strawberries and rhubarb which we used in Steph's mom's recipe for a strawb-rhubarb crisp. It was fun to bake after not really touching an oven or kitchen in two weeks. We brought the delicious crisp to a potluck at Steph's cousin's, Karin and Rob, and saw their newborn Flynn. He's so tiny! I walked around with him for a bit, so fascinating to have such a miniature person asleep in your arms.

We came back from the potluck, where the crisp was a hit, and rode bikes down to Hopworks Urban Brewery to meet up with more of Steph's family members, Mike and his son Mikey. Some good conversation and delicious beers and food and we were stuffed again (thanks for the dinner Mike!) We hung around a little longer after they left and got another beer and a tshirt, then headed home. HUB was a really fun brewery, everything had to do with bikes. They even had a cruiser banana seat mounted above the men's urinal to rest your head on if you're swaying a bit!

Sunday I made us pancakes with some leftover strawbs and we drove down to Corvallis to meet my cousins, Teri and Steve. Lunch and beers at Block 15 were great, as was the little walk and bike store visit. An avid tourer in the shop tried discouraging us from riding through Yellowstone, so we're now in the process of looking up other routes and scenic areas to bike through. Suggestions?

We returned to Portland to browse Powell's Books, a massive bookstore in downtown. This was followed by a visit to Voodoo Donuts, where the line stretched around the block and caused us to try out Voodoo Donuts Too across the bridge. We opted for a new flavor, Guava-citrus, as well as their classic Maple Bacon Bar. A little research brought us to Pok Pok for Thai takeout and we landed back at our weekend residence for dinner, dessert, and a little planning.

We both felt a little stuffed after so much beer and food all weekend so I'm looking forward to some riding on Tuesday. But unfortunately that means no Steph. It has been so great to have her here this weekend, I can't put it accurately into words. We have so much fun together and I've missed her dearly on this trip so far. Also I must send out a HUGE thanks to Pat and Ronette who's house we stayed at. They were out of town and were so nice to let us use the house.

It's been a great rest, and I got my Steph fix for the moment, so I'm ready to hit the road again. I've had 8 straight nights under a roof and I'm ready for more camping and exercise!

Sorry there aren't any pics, I swapped memory cards with Steph so my Portland pics are in her hands.

Day 14: Salem to Portland

Every once in awhile something comes along that shakes up your notions about something you once held as standard. Such was the case this morning in Salem when my cousin Nicki and I went to the Sassy Onion for breakfast. I ordered the Sassy Blintz french toast, which is two large discs of bread with crispy crust, and sandwiched between is a pile of marionberries. Then the whole thing is topped with more marionberries and a granola-y crumble. Berry-stuffed french toast? Yeah, it was amazing.

After that feast I packed up and hit the road to be able to take full advantage of the sunny day that was finally presented after four days of rainy riding. I also realized part of why the ride yesterday felt so much more difficult towards the end, I had a slow-leaking front tire! I gave it some air, rolled up my sleeves to get some sun, and started the 50+ mile trek to Portland.

The sun was great and I was able to stop on the banks of the Willamette in Wilsonville and snack on a T&S-supplied lunch: coconut macaroons, bread with honey/cheese/bacon bits, and some strawbs I picked up at a fruit stand. One small lesson, strawberries won't last very long bouncing around in a bike bag so don't try to ride too far or you'll end up with some sort of berry compote instead.

The rest of the ride went well and I arrived at Steph's cousin's house where we'll be staying for the weekend. Thanks for the accommodations Pat! I cleaned up and got ready to head back out on the bike just as a lovely little thunder and lightning storm rolled in. I wrestled Pats chickens into their coop for the night, begrudgingly donned my rain gear, and headed to Trader Joes to resupply a few food items. It's been too long since I shopped at TJs, it was amazingly difficult to stick to my required items of oatmeal, dried berries, and jerky.

Thankfully the rain stopped and I booked it into Portland's Waterfront Park where a fair had been set up for their annual Rose Festival. I indulged in some fair grub and watched fireworks launch over the Willamette, a great start to my stay here. A pit-stop at Burnside Brewing Co for an Oatmeal Pale and a Bourbon Stout and I was back to sleeping under a roof for the fifth night in a row. Will I even remember how to camp??

Now I'll just be waiting as patiently as possible for Steph to arrive tomorrow. Patience, patience, patience...

Days 11-13: Eugene, Sweet Home, Family

Why such a long break in posts? I figures if I'm taking a bit of a break you could too. Day 11 had me waking up under a roof for the first time since leaving, and it was great! I left the motel in the morning and had a Bacon Maple Bar from Voodoo Donuts, followed by the Super Plate of chilaquiles at Cafe Siena. I killed some time wandering the U of O campus and headed back to the room to check out. A tour through the rose garden and the river front wasted enough time for Ninkasi Brewery to open where I had a taster set of delicious beer, some soup, and then headed up to my cousins' place in Sweet Home.

The ride went pretty well but found me arriving at Teri and Steve's soaking wet. A nice hot shower and I was back! We had a few beers and lots of conversation, topped off with my first home cooked meal in too long.

Day 12 was the first day the saddle has not seen my butt in almost two weeks. It was a great day of relaxation, washing clothes (which was long overdue), and doing a little blog updating. Steve and I took a trip into town and visited Calapooia Brewery where I had a delicious chili ale which is made from Anaheim, Serrano, and Jalapeño peppers that the bartender wisely added some porter to that balanced the heat with some tasty roasty. That night we three combined forces to make a delicious pizza while Riley and Sage, the dogs, looked on jealously. Pizza was followed by Teri's Coconut Pie and I was again stuffed. T & S have a great place and put me up very well, thanks again guys for the amazing hospitality!

Today began with a hearty breakfast of eggs, potatoes, and bacon from the pigs next door that feed on chestnuts. Once again I was full of good, healthy food, and repacking my gear commenced. It's ridiculous how fast I can fill up a floor if I'm going to be there more than a night. They stuffed my panniers with homemade bread, bacon, and delicious Meadow Foam Honey for the next couple days, then we said our goodbyes and I hopped on the bike again, Salem-bound.

At first the ride seemed great. It was raining but I had bundled up for the first time and was pretty dry. The only downside to the rain gear is it doesn't breathe so I tried to keep the intensity low to not sweat as much. This turned out to be a bit of an issue since it seems my legs forgot how to ride in the last day, so the entire ride was more work than I expected. The hills were more challenging than they should have been and I struggled but the trip was only about 50 miles so I was able to make it okay.

I got to my cousin Nicki's in time to clean up and take her and her roommate to dinner as a thanks. I got a large plate and a good beer at Venti's and the waitress actually made a couple remarks about how much I was eating, especially compared to the girls. Teri and Steve tried to fatten me up and hopefully some of that food will stick since a measurement this morning showed that I've lost 6 pounds since Day 1, which seems crazy given the amount of food I'm consuming! So I'm continuing to work on it tonight since Nicki popped a Raspberry Rhubarb pie in the oven that we'll be enjoying soon!

Tomorrow will be a bit of Salem and then to Portland, bringing me to the city in which I'll finally see Steph again this weekend!

Visit Your Parks!!

The most depressing aspect to this trip so far has been park closures. Time and again I've come to a park where some roads are closed, seasonal bridges aren't being built, or the entire park is off limits. The small communities and businesses such as the Peg House that survive on the tourism of these parks are suffering greatly.

If I inspire anyone to do anything after going on this trip and writing this blog, I hope I light the fire under your rear and you get out to a local, state, or national park. Europe has its museums and cathedrals, America has its parks and natural beauty. The parks are masterpieces that can not only be seen but experienced by every individual. Each park I've stopped at has had some glorious vista or beautiful area that I would have never know about had I not done some exploring.

I've been in a rush or distant several times during this journey, but every time I have sat down on the banks of a pristine river or at the base of an enormous redwood, nothing else has mattered except living in that natural beauty and tranquility. Memorial Day is coming up, get out there the next chance you get and visit a place of natural wonder. And don't cheat the fee, they need the funding desperately!

Day 10: Obstacles, Eugene

Longest day yet again! Although this time it was by accident:
I started off at an RV Park in Roseburg. Since it was sprinkling a bit I decided to try cooking outside the tent but still under the fly and found it works great! Then I strolled down to the bathrooms to take care of business and found them in more than just a state of disrepair. The showers had no stalls, which I guess may have been standard in the 70s, but the toilets having no stall doors? Let's get with it people, this is 2012, not 1812. So it was the first time I've used a public bathroom in complete view of anyone that would have come in. Thanks, Douglas County Fairgrounds, for checking that one off the bucket list for me.

I started riding and had great energy and was making good time along Hwy 99 when I saw the Coconut Latte daily special at the Oakland, OR (much more benign than its Bay Area Brother) coffee shop. A latte and a "magic bar" and I was on the road again making great time. At the pace I was on I was set to hit Eugene around 2pm.

It had been sprinkling all morning but that dries quick in the wind so I wasn't worried. I snacked in Drain, then kept moving until deciding to put on shoe covers since those are the only items I'd have to use again the next day. After hopping off the bike I realized I hadn't closed my food pannier so I turned around to find the strap that had fallen off. It cost me 4 miles total but I found it.

Back on the road, speeding through the countryside until I hit Territorial Hwy which had some significant climbs. But the whole time I still felt pretty good. I even had one local pull over and ask if I wanted to come in for coffee since by that time it was a solid rain. "No thanks, I'm doing good," and I kept going, looking for Lorane Hwy. I saw Lorane and made the turn, not realizing it was Lorane ROAD. After pushing and pushing and not seeing the next turn, I made it into Cotton Grove, a good 24 miles from Eugene.

At this point I should have already been to my hotel and now it had been raining on me for the last 3 hours and I was more than an hour away! My shoes were soaked through and I was getting damned hungry, but what else could I do? I buckled down and hauled ass to Eugene. I've never had such athletic focus and determination. It could have literally been raining cats and dogs instead of just figuratively and I wouldn't have noticed. My head was down, eyes on the white line, pushing 22 mph in the rain for the next hour.

Getting into Eugene the weather cleared, I found a motel, and checked my odometer to find a daunting number: 95 miles at 16 mph average, a record day in both respects. To my delight the room had a bath tub so I indulged before donning my civilian clothes and heading out to the Rogue Brewing Public House as well as Falling Sky Brewing.

As I return to my room, full of delicious food and beer and looking forward to the first bed in 10 days, I can't help but laugh at the appropriateness of a Ripples Newsletter quote I read this morning:

"It takes so much to be a full human being that there are very few who have the enlightenment or courage to pay the price... One has to abandon altogether the search for security and reach out to the risk of living with both arms.

One has to accept pain as a condition of existence. One has to court doubt and darkness as the cost of knowing. One needs a will stubborn in conflict, but apt always to total acceptance of every consequence of living and dying."
-Morris West

Day 9: Adventure, Solar Eclipse

I woke up today ready to roll after last nights low. I hit the road by 10 with a full belly and started to navigate my way north. I tried out Old Hwy 99 with the thought that last time I tried out an abandoned highway it worked out great! Wow, I couldn't have been more wrong. I climbed to the crest and started to descend when I hit a closed gate. No problem, gates are for cars. Going past was pavement with leaves, easy riding. Eventually it turned to single track but still seemed well used, until I ran into the section where it was washed out and ceased to be anything at all! I climbed around a little to see if it would pick back up but no luck. Feeling a bit forlorn I sat down to chicken strips with sweet and sour sauce that I had picked up in the Lil Pantry in Merlin. Lunch and some long looks at the map on my phone, combined with a strong desire to move forward rather than back, made my decision.

I made sure everything was strapped down to Babe well and started down the hillside towards I-5 below. It was probably 50 vertical feet, with a forest in the way so I had my fair share of struggle, including hoisting Babe and myself over a downed fence while avoiding a tire puncture on the barbed wire. Some more scrambling and scraping and I made it to pavement. I'm not sure quite how ridiculous it must have looked but I can guarantee that those cars will never again see a biker emerge onto a freeway with a fully loaded touring bicycle again. A quick check of myself and gear and I hopped on and began pedalling. I was pretty filthy from dirt and tree debris so a quick dip in Cow Creek and I was cooled down, clean-ish, and ready for more.

At first I was hesitant about the interstate but after today I'm okay with it. The shoulders here are larger than a lane itself, the pavement is smooth, and interstates cut the straightest, most level course between to cities. Sure there are downsides like noise, grime, and fast cars, but I've found that cars will be speeding past me no matter where I am, so better I have a lot of room than an old highway with no shoulder. I even got to pass a semi on a downhill, I tossed him a wave, he threw back a honk.

The other highlight of the day was the partial solar eclipse. I was on I-5 and it started to get darker. Cars began to turn on headlights and there was an eerie, desolate orange hue to the world. I'll admit I stole one or a dozen glances at the sun through my polarized glasses, seeing the initial arc of the moon, a complete fuzzing out of the standard sun, and the waning of the eclipse. I had thought I would be too far north so it was a great surprise to see such a site on this trip!

I finished in Roseburg at a brew pub with an Imperial Red Ale, chicken sandwich with tater tots, nitro stout, and Marion berry crumble. This was my second day in a row over 75 miles and I'm ready for a third!

Day 8: Jed Smith, Oregon!

I started the day by doing the nature walk near the Jedediah Smith campgrounds. Then at the hosts recommendation took the unloaded bike back down Hwy 199 to a grove I had passed last evening on the way in. First time I rode Babe without gear in awhile and wow did it feel different. Took me a mile or so to feel comfortable. Toured the Simpson Grove which was different than any so far, much more likely to house a pack of velociraptors with its chest high ferns. Back at camp I ate and packed up, then went down to the river.

I've heard the Smith River is the 6th purest river in the country and I would believe it. I went down to the banks, looked in, and couldn't help but jump in. After drying off I hit 199 again which luckily paralleled the Smith for quite some time. The beauty of this river surpasses any that I have ever seen. It crashes and collects in polls, coursing through canyons, all the while allowing one to see through a brilliant teal to the deepest bottoms. I was floored by how stunning the landscape was in this area.

I kept pushing and finally reached the border of Oregon! It took me a bit (setup, timing, nervousness) but I snapped the appropriate pictures to complete a couple challenges and moved on. Immediately the landscape changes giving way to flat highway, dryer climate, and pine trees. It's still beautiful but good job Cali for claiming almost all the redwoods! A last push and I made it to Griffin Park outside Grants Pass.

This last stretch was a little rough. I let myself get too hungry and all I could think about was pizza and beer in downtown GP and that I wasn't going to have any. Then the scope of my trip hit me a little and I realized I'll be doing this for a long time to come. I'm definitely looking forward to a day at my cousin's Teri and Steve's place, as well as some stationary days in Portland with Steph. But in the meantime, lookout Rogue Brewing because I'm overdue for beer and I'm coming in HOT!

Day 7: Prairie Creek, Offroad

Today started with a hike around Prairie Creek for a bit since I got in too late last night to enjoy it. Although Humboldt Redwoods had more grandeur this park is certainly the most beautiful I've been in. The redwoods are immense but there's so much more: ferns, lush moss, a variety of trees, and abundant wildlife. Finishing the hike without a shirt and then packing up got me my first sunburn of the trip. I'm pretty rosy on the shoulders and upper back but nothing too bad, didn't notice it until tonight.

I hit the road at 1:30 and the ranger was a little shocked I was trying for Jedediah Smith today, I didn't think it would be an issue. I snagged a sandwich in Klamath which seemed to be a pretty depressing town with slot machines in the gas station/restaurant and people wandering aimlessly. Continuing on I saw the largest Paul Bunyan and Babe statues yet, Babe himself was 35' to the horn tips! Then I began to climb 101, and climb, and climb. At mile marker 15.50, just as promised by Jim on Day 5, was the start of the abandoned section of old hwy 101.

I dropped the tire pressure to ~40 psi to avoid flats and charged on. The first section was one of the most enjoyable rides since I started. The scenery was beautiful and lush, and the terrain was a mix of old asphalt and redwood needles. Then it turned to single track and eventually lost the pavement altogether and became a full on mountain bike trail. While Jim was right about my tires being able to handle the downhill, I hadn't thought about uphill. A loaded bike with smooth face tires does nothing but spin out when you crank it on gravel or foliage. So I ended up having to walk my bike about .25 miles uphill before I could ride again. Then came the downhill he described. This would be a great run for a mountain bike, for mine it was a true challenge. I was a little nervous about the brakes going out a couple times but Babe did fine and brought me down to the bottom. It was quite the adventure and I had a great time with it. Thanks Jim!

A hunger pain drove me to the Good Harvest Cafe in Crescent City for an oatmeal stout, cup of clam chowder, shrimp florentine sandwich, and a slice of 4-layer carrot cake! One thing's for sure on this trip, I'm not starving myself. This also gave me a good spot to charge my phone and camera and send a few messages out. Thankfully the cook informed me that the Stout Grove summer bridge hadn't been installed in Jed Smith so I detoured around on Hwy 199 and here I am! That Jim was just a wealth of knowledge and he proved correct again, Jed has the best H/B sites in the area! Plenty of space, good bear lockers, tables, and fire pits, as well as new-ish showers that were nice and hot!

Excited for a good ride tomorrow, Oregon here I come!

Also, today was my last official day at work, last paycheck. Guess I need to start budgeting.

Day 6: Eureka, Prairie Creek

This has been my longest day yet! When I got to camp the odometer told me 81.68 miles and gave me a high five. I got an early start, leaving camp at 7:30 and working up to Loleta Bakery on a locals recommendation. I talked with am elderly woman about the trip and told her I'm trying to get up to Portland by next weekend to meet my girlfriend to which she replied, "Oh no, you WILL be in Portland by next weekend."

A slice of quiche, danish, and a latte and I was set. Also, thanks Jean for the free oatmeal cookie, I thoroughly enjoyed it tonight. All of their goods were delicious, I highly recommend stopping if you can. Loleta was a great little town except for the guy in the pickup who thought it would be hilarious to accelerate  a Lost-style diesel smoke monster into my face.

I cranked up to Eureka and found a hardware store where I bought some blue Loctite on Jim's recommendation and borrowed some solvent from the store employees (thanks!). I used the Loctite on the rack screws, one of which had almost fallen out while riding rough pavement in the Ave of Giants. After a few quick adjustments ol' Babe was ready to go again. But I was getting a bit hungry and Lost Coast Brewing had a 40 oz taster set and lunch with my name on it. A good meal and I hit the road, in an attempt to cover another 53 miles.

The Arcata marshes were lovely and the town seemed fun, I'll add it to the list of places to explore more in depth. I took the Hammond Trail in McKinleyville which was a great freeway bypass. I hopped on the freeway again and took an accidental turn which put me on Scenic Dr. just south of Trinidad. This was the most beautiful CA coastline I've ever seen! The road continued up to Patrick's Point SP which I swung through briefly. Another park that had stunning vistas and great camping spots!

Finally I had to buckle down and get to Prairie Creek before the sun dropped into the Pacific. This was my first "break UP" of the trip. I had just come down a really long hill after Patty's Pt and was high on the wind and some Gu Roctane (thanks Kat!) When I came out on a lagoon with Roosevelt Elk grazing right next to the highway and the sun casting an orange glow on the whole area, and I couldn't help but shed a few tears at the bliss I was experiencing.

The last stretch to camp was rough on the body, I was getting incredibly hungry and weary. But mercifully the highway was flat and I cranked hard into camp where I devoured some food, the cookie, and Hot Chocolate with whiskey. Overall though I felt good and I'm excited to see how far I can ride on a long day with the wind at my back.

Day 5: Ave of Giants, Headwinds

Today started out with me shedding a little bit of weight, a bottle of spray sunscreen. It's been too cool and especially dirty on the highways to ride at length without a shirt. Last night was also my first shower but it was just barely warm enough to be comfortable. For those who know me well I love showering and letting the hot water soak in for a bit, so this was pretty disappointing. It was cool in the campground and I was in such a rush to dry off that I left my bottle of Dr. Bronners behind, accidentally shedding more weight. Jim, a biker I ran into yesterday, stopped by the campsite knowing that I had camped there. He brought a map for me of the northern part of the coast and some highlights marked off already! On his recommendation I'll try to get to Prairie Creek tomorrow and then ride an abandoned stretch of old Hwy 101 the next day. He was really nice and had some great touring tips and places to see.

I spent quite a bit of time exploring in the early part of the day since the Ave north of Burlington is more impressive than south. I walked the Founders Loop and saw the massive, fallen, Dyerville Giant. All of this reminded me of The Wild Trees by Richard Preston, which if you haven't read I highly recommend. It details how many of the world's tallest trees exist in this park and their greatness was only fully discovered in the last two decades. I snacked at Bull Creek and visited Giant Tree, which is nearby the tallest tree in the world. The ranger informed me that 130 out if the world's tallest 180 trees reside in just this little area.

After saying goodbye to one of the most impressive displays of nature on the planet, I hit the Ave one final time and cruised north. In total today I encountered 9 other bike tourers, all heading south. I have been informed over and over that I'm heading the "wrong way", but until leaving the Ave I hadn't experienced why. Every time I have just explained that I chose the route I want to take because I wanted to start in my homeland and see particular sights, regardless of hardship. Hence the "Current Inspiration" songs. As soon as I got back on 101 I was hit with a ~20 mph headwind. This can really make the going rough, especially when there are no trees to block the gusts. I actually got to the point of wishing for semis to pass me because it meant I would have 2 seconds of no wind.

This was also the point at which I've felt in the most danger. I had to cross the Memorial something-or-other bridge and the railing was only as high as my butt. To add to the concern I was on the highway and trying to stay toward the edge as much as possible, and a cross wind was pushing me towards the railing. My fear was a semi pushing an extra gust of wind at me and if I had hit the railing, with my body's center of gravity being above it, I could have been diving into the river 100 feet below, which wasn't quite deep enough for that sort of thing.

So I powered through and struggled up to Fortuna, where Eel River Brewing Co is conveniently located. I filled up on all you can eat fish n chips and a sampler tray of their beers, then walked down the road to a campground and RV park which had free hot showers! A quick discussion with a hiker, Troy, who has been hiking and hitching for weeks all over the western states, and then to bed early in anticipation of a long Day 7.

Days 3 & 4: Peg Hole, Badass Journey, Ave of Giants

Day 3 was almost 70 miles of biking through Mendocino Co. There's very little in the way of destinations but the countryside is gorgeous. I saw a herd of about 75 elk grazing in a field off the highway. Speaking of highways, I spent all but 8 miles on 101. I've found that a Hwy has its benefits and drawbacks. On one hand, the shoulder is almost always wide and most cars move to the extra lane to give you space. On the other, cars are traveling 60-70 mph pretty close and it can be noisy and definitely filthy.

I ended Day 3 at Standish-Hickey State Park, which was closed except for hiker/bikers, meaning I was the only one there! I changed quickly and ran across the hwy to the Peg Hole store and pub. Granted I was famished (almost dangerously so) but they had the best BBQ oysters I've ever had. Add a chicken club and an oatmeal stout and I was sated. I came back to camp and found another couple had arrived, Dave and Lisa. They're touring from Vancouver to SF. We shared wine, chocolate, and cherries I got on the way up and exchanged tips and advice, then called it a night.

Day 4: Met Jeff and April at the campsite that morning and again at Confusion Hill, a funky little tourist trap. We each spent a worthwhile $5 to check out the areas where magnetism and gravity supposedly get confused, much like the Santa Cruz Mystery Spot. Talked with the owner Doug for a bit and continued down a stretch of old, closed highway that was beginning to be torn out by Caltrans. Worker explained the slide problems and how the new bridge was just recently built and has a height above the water greater than the Golden Gate!

Highlight of the day was when I stopped at Richardson Grove SP for lunch. I had no idea CDF used inmates to cut fire lines but they do up here. Chatted for a bit with the fireman and a prisoner about my trip and their work. As I hopped on the bike the prisoner turned to the fireman and said, "That dude's on a badass journey!"

Finished the day along part of the Avenue of the Giants and camped at Burlington Campground. Aside from the local pickups driving way too fast on that road, the scenery was epic. So many redwoods and dense forest. I'll post pics but they really won't do it justice.

I met Nicole at camp who is riding from Arcata to the Bay Area for chemotherapy. She just recently had a mastectomy and wanted to arrive strong for chemo. I found out later she has a blog: Kicking My Cancer

Ready to explore the redwoods a bit more tomorrow!

Day 2: Mother's Day, Goodbyes, Lake Mendocino

Woke up today at Spring Lake and rode with Nat and Steph to Healdsburg to meet our families for Mother's Day. Everyone makes such delicious food! It was great to see everyone again and get to say goodbye to family in a more intimate setting. Saying bye to Steph was especially hard, we spend so much wonderful time together it's going to be quite a change. Then I whooped the crap out of the Alexander Valley and made it up to Ukiah. Finishing a long day if riding with a couple beers and some grub is the life! Mendocino Brewing Co moved their Ale House here last year so it was great to be able to get a classic Red Tail and Black Hawk Stout. I also met a lovely couple from Redding that gave me some great spots to see in the next few days. I finished the ride and got a lake front campsite on Lake Mendocino, and I immediately jumped in the water. My ride today was 78.92 miles, 25 miles longer than I've ever ridden in one stretch. For non-cyclists you're probably flabbergasted that that's possible in one day while carrying 100 lbs. For avid cyclists you're probably saying "78 miles is the longest you've ever ridden?  Weaksauce." Well it is and I'm proud of doing it so whatever. Time to rest this weary body.

Day 1: Send Off, Russian River Brewing

Day 1 was incredible. I started at Goat Rock State Beach and had a number of friends and family there to see me dip my tires in the Pacific. I scooped up some Pacific water to transport with me and dump in the Atlantic when I reach it (hopefully I don't carry over any West Coast bacteria).

The start was a pretty rough climb but we all made it. Joel and Brent rode from Santa Rosa to meet us, then rode back so they had over 70 miles! Pat rode with us from the beach to Monte Rio and then back, and we swooped up my sister Nat in Forestville.

A lovely jaunt through west Sonoma County brought us to Russian River Brewing Co. where a number of other friends met up and we proceeded to eat and drink from 3-7:30! One fantastic aspect to biking is I'm able to then devour 4 delicious beers (Blind Pig IPA, Sanctification, Russian River Porter, and Pliny the Elder) plus half a large pizza. After filling our bellies we finished the 3 miles to Spring Lake and camped with s'mores and Jiffy Pop!

It was truly amazing to have friends, family, and loved ones come out to support me in the onset of this journey. I look forward to seeing a few along the way but most will be out of sight until Fall.

T Minus 12 Hours

As this countdown progresses I admittedly am getting a little more nervous. Do I have everything I'll need? Do I have too much? Will I even enjoy bike touring or will I be coming back in a week, tail between my legs? Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps.

But I think I'm fairly ready, my bags are packed and I'm ready to go. Here's a few notables:
Me in my birthday suit = 181 lbs
The bike = 33 lbs
My gear + a few days of food = 67 lbs

So yes, I will be hauling and even 100 lbs across the country, give or take a few as my food rations fluctuate. I'm sure there are a few things I will be shipping back but keep in mind I'll be spending a lot of time on my own so the little extras are probably not extras but necessities. Harmonica, Kindle, and iPod are most definitely necessary.

I've said goodbye to the cutest kitties ever, handed the keys to my sister to look after my apt, and dropped my car off with Gramma. Tomorrow will be a great time although somewhat odd since I'll be biking through very familiar territory and staying my first night in a local town. The true adventure probably won't begin until later the second day as I enter strange territory. Below is a pic of the bandana (snot rag) that my amazing girlfriend embroidered for me, I'll post a pic at the end of the trip to show how stained and tattered it becomes.

To paraphrase Tootles: "Have to ride, Have to camp, Have to smang!"

Funemployment!

It's now Tuesday, four days after my last day of work! It turned out to be a great day, there was a long awaited BBQ cook-off that happened to coincide with my last day so everyone was in great spirits and the workplace smelled of BBQ from 7am until we devoured the fixings. It was also a great occasion to hang out with so many friends in the workplace.

I'll miss the challenges at work but most of all the people. I had been there roughly 3 years and 8 months during which I made some of my best friends. I intend on returning when I get back from my ride but life is unpredictable so I'm not rigidly fixated on returning to the same place. It was nice to see that my boss wanted be to stay bad enough to create a petition to keep me there. This petition was posted outside his office for the last several months gathering signatures. I'm honored, amused, and a little perplexed by the roster. In case you can't make out some of the signatures, the list includes the company president, my mom, and the Easter Bunny. There are a couple that give me the suspicion of fraud such as Steve Jobs, and unless it's another of her miracles Mother Theresa managed to come back from the dead and sign. Also, I was amused to find out that President Obama signs his name, simply and in all caps, OBAMA.
 
Thanks everyone, unfortunately the list was not completely filled and there are too many questionable signatures, such as the photocopied meeting attendance list that was taped to the petition. Better luck next time!

So now I begin my funemployment! I'm spending my days making lists of essentials, getting a sublet tenant in my apartment, and riding every day. I'll be honest, it's a little difficult to stay focused on the tasks at hand. I'm tempted to do unnecessary yet enjoyable things that I haven't been able to recently such as gardening or reading, and need to remind myself that there's actually a pretty big trip coming up that needs a few final touches.