Fantastically Hedonistic New Orleans

Ariel and I spent three nights and close to three days in the Mardi Gras capital and I'll preface the story of our time with the fact that in New Orleans it's legal to have an open alcoholic beverage in public. For those of us used to the customs of normal states this news came as a bit of a shock and we were certain to take full advantage of the liberties given in this city.

We got in a little late but after meeting our hostesses Dani and Allyson we went out to Frenchman St. This area was described to us as the "Bourbon St for locals." We got a couple drinks and listened to a funky, jazzy brass band. Then we simply walked outside with our drinks and down to the next bar with live music! All down the street was live music, cheap drinks, and people having fun in the sticky warm nighttime air. The music scene here was thrilling and I couldn't get enough of it. We would be watching a band and in the middle of an instrumental jam some seemingly random guy would walk in with a trumpet or sax or trombone and start jamming with them. These gypsy musicians typically had just left their own band's gig down the street and popped in to jam while walking by. I could've stayed at these bars all night and day for the whole weekend but we had much to see.

The next morning we got brunch at a cafe and ordered Bloody Marys from the bar next door. The food was delicious, especially the grits, and when we left we got another Bloody for the road. We just couldn't believe it was legal to walk down the street with a cocktail in hand and made the most of it. Although legal, we did find out that people find it odd when you do this in a residential neighborhood on a Saturday morning, as evidenced by the hair dressers in a salon laughing as they saw us strolling by.

We explored the river front and Audubon Park and returned to the apartment to get ready for Midsummer Mardi Gras which just happened to fall on this Saturday that we were here. Dani has a great costume trunk and Ariel and I were able to pull together some killer outfits before heading out. We got to the parade beginning and joined the roughly thousand other people with daiquiris in hand. There were some hilarious costumes and floats, like Bar-2-D2 which rolled by with drinks. We paraded for a bit and ended in a park with everyone else where we enjoyed hanging out and garrulously chatting with others until we stumbled back home for the night.

Sunday we ventured out for another brunch which was of course delicious. Then, feeling the richness of the food wearing on us, we went for a run down the streetcar tracks as many do. It was hot and absurdly humid and when we returned from our several mile jaunt and stopped creating our own breeze, starting sweating profusely. Ariel showered first and I just stood in the kitchen over the floor mat so as not to create a flood on the hardwood. I don't think I've ever sweat as much, I was completely soaked as if I'd fallen in a pool and then when I got out a pool had fallen on me. There was no end, even after I showered, and both of us ended up laying on the bed under the ceiling fan for awhile to cool down.

Once we had gathered ourselves we ventured out to check out Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. The area was really fun and we saw some live music at House of Blues and wandered the Quarter. There were many street artists and cute storefronts, and we did some souvenir shopping along with Cafe Au Lait and beignets at Cafe Du Monde and then searched out some oysters. Everyone had recommended Acme Oyster House but there was a line and we had a show to go to soon. The decision to go across the street to Felix's was a great one and the guy behind the oyster bar immediately shucked us 7 oysters each even though we were only ordering a dozen. He showed us how to efficiently and safely shuck oysters and we enjoyed the low key nature of the guy and place. The Po' Boys were good and the guy even gave us a couple pieces of the slice of cake he had been given by the kitchen.

We paid and hustled off to a show that Steph had helped us find after fruitlessly searching on our phones. What she came up with was a Mario Brothers themed burlesque show! It was the last night they were performing so we took this once in a lifetime opportunity. This was my first burlesque show and it was a mixture of hilarious and sexy, with emphasis on the former. They got the crowd into it and we were all laughing throughout the hour. After the show we walked back to Bourbon Street and got a beer at Lafitte's, the oldest bar in America having been founded 15 years before our country. It doesn't seem to get too crazy since it's at the end of Bourbon but it has a great atmosphere. We were stunned by all the activity on Bourbon on a Sunday night and the live music was great.

Monday morning was our last and we started it with a swamp tour. The Louisiana swamp was stunning and wild and we saw upwards of a dozen alligators which the guide coaxed right next to the boat with the promise of hot dogs. We learned some local history, saw turtles, herons, and miles of Spanish moss. Afterwards we returned to NOLA and had a luxurious yet good priced lunch at Commander's Palace which, during weekday lunches, can be accompanied by tasty 25 cent martinis! Being the driver I only had one but since Ariel would soon be hopping on a plane he was good about consuming a dollars worth. The mood about the place was interesting since Hurricane Isaac was nearing and most businesses had their windows boarded up. It was fortunate that Ariel's flight was today because tomorrow the storm would touch land and all flights were cancelled. But unfortunately the coming of a hurricane prompted many to voluntarily evacuate and it took us and hour and a half to drive the 15 miles to the airport. He left his luggage with me to avoid the time to check a bag and I dropped him off with less than an hour until takeoff, thankfully he made the flight.

I've been fortunate to have friends and loved ones who have met me along the way on this long journey and Ariel's company through the past week was the best way to drive a couple thousand miles. We had some boring stretches but overall the music was thumping and we had a fantastic time seeing the South and nearly literally drinking in New Orleans.

Across the South

Ariel and I had the grand goal of waking up to be able to see the sun rise over the ocean instead of always seeing it set over water back home. We got up in time, drove to the beach, and found that the sky was too cloudy to actually see the sun. A little disappointed, we went for a run down the beach, came back and packed up, and headed for Atlanta. The Outer Banks were a lot of fun, even for just a night, and I'm sure I'll make it back here for longer to have fun with their many recreational opportunities like kayaking, surfing, parasailing, and just swimming in the relatively warm waters of the Atlantic.

The driving was scenic and we couldn't believe just how lush and green the scenery was in the Carolinas. Just before exiting the freeway we got pulled over again and got the same response. You can't drive without registration. Wow that's an amazing story. Expect to get pulled over again. At this point I started a contest with friends on Facebook, the prize being a beer on me, to correctly guess how many time I get pulled over on the 4000 miles of driving back to home. I got some good guesses and now I won't be blogging about being pulled over until I get back.

We stopped for lunch with a friend in Raleigh, South Carolina where we had some really delicious BBQ. Liz is a friend of Steph's that Ariel knew as well so it was fun to meet her. Raleigh also seemed like a cool town but we wanted to reach Atlanta so we hopped back on the road and pushed on to Georgia.

We arrived at our friend Amanda's place just outside Atlanta and it was great to catch up with her after several years and have a couple beers. It was also awesome of her to wait up so late and have an air mattress ready! To top it off, her boyfriend James made us breakfast in the morning! This trip has been full of nice people, strangers and friends alike, and it's never lost on me when someone helps me out so much. Thanks guys!

After breakfast and goodbyes Ariel and I drove into town and stopped at the Coca Cola museum. I'm not much of a soda drinker, let alone Coke, but we wanted to see it after hearing it was interesting. After videos, a little bit of history, and tons of lights, cheery people, and visual/audio stimulation we left completely overwhelmed. The entire thing was like a giant ad to buy more Coke, which I shouldn't have been surprised about since their main strength as a company is their marketing. Some of the old ads and merchandise they had were interesting, and it was fun to taste some of the international soda brands they own and some different flavors like apple soda from Mexico and pineapple kiwi soda from South America, but overall it was kinda crazy to have all these exhibits and features and entertainment for just a soda.

We continued on with New Orleans as the destination for the night. Alabama and Mississippi went by quickly and we only stopped for gas and a bite to eat before entering Louisiana and finally NOLA where we would be staying at a friend of my sister's for the next three nights before Ariel flies back and I finish this journey.

Showtime in DC, on to the Outer Banks

Our first day of driving together started off with a quick succession of new states, all of which needed pictures with jorts. We dipped into Delaware quickly, then Maryland and finally DC. We first stopped at Bob and Sharon's, Steph's great uncle and aunt with whom we'd be staying for the night. They had a lunch spread ready for us and it was great to meet them. We eventually took the subway into town and stopped first at the Air and Space Museum. It was really amazing to see all the aircraft and spacecraft, especially the Wright Brothers exhibit.

A couple ridiculous, and by that I mean awesome, pictures were taken on the Mall and we headed to Dupont Circle to meet a friend for dinner. We killed time walking down Embassy Row which was really interesting to see so many countries represented and their flags. We had some good sushi then headed over to Hank's Oyster Bar for oyster happy hour where they were 50 cents each! Another drink and we caught the last subway back to Bob and Sharon's.

The next morning we made them breakfast in appreciation of their hospitality and headed back to the Mall for some more sightseeing. We were decked out in all patriotic gear and it was humbling and inspiring to see the Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, WWII Memorial, and the sculpture garden. I wasn't surprised when the car with no plates that we were driving around the country's center of power was pulled over. The first officer gave me a bit of a hard time about driving an unregistered vehicle, but while he ran some checks his partner got the story of my trip and we had a great conversation including the story of his dad riding a fixed gear bike from Boston to Pennsylvania when he was 11 1/2. This cop understood the journey and was excited for me. I'm not sure if that had any bearing on the outcome but the first officer came back with only a warning ticket and told me to expect to get pulled over again before I got home. I said thanks and we moved on, amused because it was obvious that he thought it had to be illegal somehow but hadn't gotten any clarity from dispatch and really wasn't sure what to do so the warning sufficed.

After having our fill of monument and police, Ariel and I drove past the ominously massive Pentagon on the way out of town and entered Virginia. Our destination was the Outer Banks in North Carolina and we made it just barely before dark. The whole area was really pretty and we enjoyed a good meal and beers at the local brewery. On the way back to our campsite we came across one of the coolest stores I've seen all trip, the Brew Thru. It's a gas station and market but you drive through the building and place your order from the car. The beer and wine are lined up against the driveway so you can see your choices and tell the cashier what you want, then they'll get it for you. Sure it's lazy but the idea of buying beer while still in the car is great and we got some fun souvenirs too.

Back at camp we settled down for what would be the first and last night camping with Ariel on the trip, and he was a little surprised at how small my tent was that we were sharing but we were roommates in college for four years so it was no big deal. We made the mistake of opening the tent flaps for a little bit too long to adjust the fly, and spent the next 30 minutes finding and killing the dozen or so mosquitoes that made their way into the tent before finally getting some sleep.

The Boys Meet in Philly

After getting mixed up on the NJ Turnpike a little I finally made it down to Philadelphia. A quick stop along the way provided me with a pair of gym shorts, a small cooler, and a Nalgene water bottle for the road. I picked up Ariel at Reading Terminal Market where he'd been waiting since arriving earlier in the morning. The first reaction was a solid bout of laughter at the car I rolled up in and we threw his luggage in the trunk. We had all day to hang out in Philly so we started off with a stop at the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. Our Hall tour guide was an interesting character and provided some unintentional comedy to the historically informative tour. It was pretty inspiring to be in the same room that the country's founders sat in while they crafted documents of tyranny.

Next we met up with one of Steph's friends, Allan, at whose place we'd be sleeping that night. He gave us a spare key and some great recommendations so we set off back to Reading Terminal Market. We indulged in the mandatory cheesesteak which was fine but reminded me of how little I enjoy the taste of red meat on its own, especially when there's nothing else on the sandwich but some onions and mediocre cheese. A walk was necessary and the course of parks on the way to the Stallone Rocky statue and the Museum of Art provided a great relief from the cheesesteaks. We even got to see a grown man of questionable sanity playing in one of the fountains. He was obviously having a great time in his swim trunks, sticking his chest into the high velocity fountain jets and yelling at random people so we stayed to watch a few minutes.

We found our way to the subway and rode down to the Phillies ballpark where we had tickets for the game that night. The sports complex there is like nothing I've ever seen, with stadiums for baseball, basketball, football, and hockey all in one area with one of the biggest sports bars either of us had ever set foot in right in the middle of it all. The game was fun and the park was really nice but it's hard to cheer on a game when you don't care about either of the teams playing. But since I've been starved of Giant's games this season it's been great to be able to see a few games on the road. We hit up a pizza joint on the way back and then settled down for the night. Thanks again Allan for letting us crash in your room while at work overnight!

NYC, Act II

I met Armin and Steph at Armin's apartment since he was nice enough to carry my stuff from the Google office where it had been stored for the day. He shares a nice place in Lower Manhattan with a few guys and soon the three of us were heading out to dinner and drinks in the East Side with his friend Erica. It was a lot of fun to hang out in NYC with someone who really knows the place and we had a beer at a bar that caters to SF Bay Area sports teams and such so I got a taste of home. I also got a taste I wasn't expecting with the newly popular "pickleback" drink. It's a shot of whiskey followed by a shot of pickle juice. Certainly not conventional but I found it surprisingly enjoyable. We hopped to and through a couple bars before it started pouring, pushing us to catch a cab back. One last stop at the nearby dive bar resulted in a quick dance on the bar by one of us (I won't name names but with two guys and one girl you can probably guess who it was) and the free shots that were payment, then we called it a night.

Saturday started out with another delicious bagel and lox before we walked over the Brooklyn Bridge. Although the bridge was under construction it was still fun to see the iconic structure and turn back for a vista of the Manhattan skyline. Armin, Steph, and I walked around Brooklyn a little and then trained over to Williamsburg for some satisfying beers at Brooklyn Brewing Co. The destination in this area was the free concert at Williamsburg Park and we walked over to listen to Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings. I've loved her music for a few years now and was blown away by their live show. It was fantastic to share such fun music and dancing with Steph and Armin and we had a great time. After the show we got some amazing pizza at a hole in the wall place and headed back to sleep.

Sunday started off in the best way, with a mouth watering brunch at Chop House. The food and Bloody Marys were fantastic and the three of us enjoyed a walk along the gorgeous High Line and listened to a good jazz trio playing for tips. Steph and I checked into the luxurious Standard Hotel fornight the night and took their complimentary bikes out for a ride down the waterfront trail. We walked around Greenwich Village awhile and picked up some pizza and side dishes which we brought back to the room. A tasty but quiet meal with just the two of us was the perfect way to end a fantastic week together, especially when capped with cocktails and dessert from the room service menu.

The next day we said goodbye for a couple weeks and I made my way uptown to get the car. I found another "no plates" ticket but at least it started up again and soon I was on my way across the GW bridge to meet Ariel in Philly.

Romping Around NYC, Act I

We got into NYC a little later than expected which caused me to push back a lunch date with a friend. I met Ben for coffee later on and it was fun to catch up after nearly 6 years. I also walked the trail along the Hudson and around the World Financial Center and the Freedom Tower being built. This entire area was very impressive with all the global power that's concentrated here. I met Steph when she got off work and we hauled our bags through the pouring rain and thunder uptown to a friend Rachel's place. Although we arrived soaking she welcomed us in and proved to be a great host for the next two nights.

After drying off we ventured back out to meet one of my best friends Matt for Ethiopian food. Matt and I had our fair share of adventures in middle school and high school and it was really fun catching up with him over dinner and later drinks.

The next day I made myself busy with the following: eating an amazing bagel with lox, snacking at Chelsea Market, walking Central Park, and exploring the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Central Park was beautiful, perhaps the grandest city park I've ever seen, and the Met was so much fun to explore. I could have spent another several days there but just seeing what I did was enough to make me awe and also inspire me to try some new pottery ideas when I get back.

Steph had a surprise in store for us and she took me to the Frying Pan, a tasty restaurant on a barge docked in the Hudson. After dinner we went to Say No More, a kind of interactive play. I'll try not to give too much away but it was basically a modern rendition of Macbeth which is acted out throughout the many rooms of a mansion. While the actors are running around in their roles, you as an observer can rifle through the prop letters and rooms and follow the actors as they silently act out their parts, all while wearing an anonymous mask and saying nothing. It was a really interesting experience and we both had a lot of fun being a part of it.

Friday morning we went for a run which we both needed. A lot of eating and drinking can be exhausting, especially since I hadn't exercised for five days now. The run gave me a ton of energy but we had to make it quick since I had a meeting. I took the subway uptown to meet Marco and buy his car. I had looked around and decided that if I had to deal with the DMV and such it would be better to buy the car here in NYC when I had a couple days. The '95 Corolla isn't much to look at but after a test drive it seems to roll fine. It has several new components in the last two years and it's almost the same car I learned to drive a stick on so I'm really comfortable with it. We ended up settling at $1200 and I feel pretty good that this beast will get me home! The downside to buying a car here is that in NY the plates belong to the person not the car so Marco took them. Now I'm driving around in a car that has no license plates and it's sure to attract attention. Within the first hour of owning it I had parked in the wrong area and gotten a ticket for that as well as for having no plates. But on a positive note my insurance didn't increase one cent due to a multi car discount and low value, and my insurance lady informed me that since I'd be registering it in CA, which has a 30 day grace period after purchasing the vehicle, I wouldn't need to register the vehicle until I get back!

I was pretty excited and spent the next several hours checking out the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. It was really interesting to hear the audio tours about how the meaning of Lady Liberty has changed over the years and see the whole process of immigrants entering the USA. My great grandmother entered this country through Ellis Island and it was really exciting to see what she and millions others might have gone through. After this it was time to meet Steph and my friend Armin whose apartment we would be staying at, so I'll leave the coming adventurous nights for the second act.

Boston

If you're still checking the blog I apologize for the delay in posts. It's been a long week and a half of hanging out and exploring and admittedly it was a nice break from blogging. That said, I'll try and keep it updated more frequently from now to the end!

Steph and I explored Boston for three more days before leaving. On Sunday we checked out Harvard and I finally got the opportunity to shave my hideous beard. I didn't take a final measurement but my chin hair at the longest was less than 2 inches after three months of growing. I splurged on a shave and haircut at a barbershop and it was pretty nice. Hot shave, warm towel, shampoo and scalp rub, even a quick shoulder massage!

We met up with her cousins who let us stay at their place, and their daughter Becky and her boyfriend Lou at who's place we would be staying the rest of the time in Boston. Dinner was great and we settled in for the night.

Since Steph had to work that Monday and Tuesday I wandered around town myself. Having not used a kitchen in awhile I thoroughly enjoyed cooking Steph a swordfish, tomato salad, asparagus, and grilled peach dinner, followed by fruit salad and a breakfast sandwich the next morning. I made it clear that I'd be fine cooking good meals everyday for her if she brought home the bacon, we'll see if that works.

The next day I made a quick trip to Sam Adams and toured the brewery which resulted in several tasters and a fun walk back to the metro station. Later Steph and I met up with Thomas, the German I rode with in SD, and had dinner, a couple drinks, and a slice of Boston Cream Pie for good measure. It was fun to catch up with him about the rest of our respective trips and we wished each other well in future endeavors. Boston has been a really fun city to explore. It's not too big and not overwhelming but still has a lot going on and it's a beautiful city to walk around in.

The next morning Steph and I woke up damn early and caught the Greyhound down to New York where I'm excited to spend the next several days seeing friends and exploring one of the world's greatest cities.

Smangin' Stats

Now that the trip has come to an end I thought it would be interesting to sum it up with some stats. Some of these are conservative guesses, others are right on the money.

RIDING
92 total days
5432.0 total miles
109.44 miles: longest single day in mileage
7:33 longest day of riding in time
488.24 miles: longest 5 day stretch (Oacoma to Decorah)
14.1 mph: moving average over the whole trip
18.6 mph: fastest days average (Day 46)
49.9 mph: fastest speed (unless you count the computer glitch that showed me 65 one day)
190,000+ feet: total elevation gain
18 stationary days (5 consecutive was the longest stretch in Missoula)
73 average miles per day of actual riding, not including city exploring
17 days of consecutive riding without a full days rest (Missoula to Pierre)

WHAT I RODE THROUGH
2 countries
17 states/provinces
9 capitals
14 national parks/forests
30 state parks
45+ local parks
33+ significant bike trails
2 interstate highways (I-5 and I-90)
5 days of 100°+ temperatures

WHAT I DRANK
44 breweries/brewpubs visited
2 wineries visited
1 sake brewery visited
28 beer flights

ME
440,000 estimated calories burned while riding (from healthstatus.com calculator for ~240 lbs, 14.1 mph, 23,000 minutes riding)
8 lbs lost over entire trip (most dramatic measured was 6 lbs lost in first 10 days)
< 2 inches of beard growth
0 cases of foot fungus or other maladies (I was concerned since I haven't worn sandals in the showers the whole trip)

WHERE I STAYED
54 nights of legit camping, including 3 nights of stealth camping
7 hotels
29 nights with friends/family/friends of friends
1 night with a former stranger (you da man Raul!)

BIKE (what I replaced/fixed)
3 wheels
2 multitools
7 spokes
1 set of handlebar tape
13 flats
2 chains
4 sets of brake pads (2 front, 2 rear)
1 front rack

MISC
Over $750 dollars raised for charity
2 clogged toilets (think about the piles of food I ate, this is a pretty low number)
2 riders that accompanied me for a significant time (10 days total)
5 ferry rides
24 consecutive days of riding without a flat
4 consecutive days without a real shower
103 blog posts (including this one)
1 bee stuck between my cheek and helmet strap (got it out before being stung)
2 times I showered without bringing my towel (using a sock isn't so great)
1 bird pooping on me
1 time peeing on myself while trying to get some quick, desperate relief on a trail while still straddling the bike
13 lbs shed from gear over entire trip (67 down to 54)
2 times falling, both when coming to a stop and not clipping out soon enough
1 run-in with the law

Health Check: Mind, Body, and Bike After Crossing the USA

How about a final checkup after 92 days and 5400+ miles?

MIND
The last week or so was really great with the camping and generally easy pace. I was able to take things a little slower and enjoy the camping and riding for themselves and not as a means to an end. I'm more excited than ever to bike tour again after finding it to be a supremely enjoyable way to take in a new area. You may have been to or through and area in a car, but you haven't experienced that area until you sweat in the heat of an area, bask in the cool winds, hear the sounds of local birds, people, bustle or lack thereof, and smelled the thick sweetness that can only be acres of corn borne on the wind. I'm ever grateful for the experience and it's taught me a lot about how to take in a new environment or city.

BODY
I've been very comfortable on the bike and haven't had any recent issues other than a sore wrist from my last fall in Toronto. Some noticeable changes is my body over the whole trip are certainly my longer hair and what has unfortunately occurred on my face. I'm glad I didn't try to grow a beard while working because this thing is pretty bad, but it has been pretty hilarious to watch it grow. I have sharp tan lines on my ankles and the backs of my calves are probably more tan than anything else. I've also been riding shirtless a little, and my jerseys advertise an equivalent of SPF 50 so some light gets through, resulting in a fairly tan back. The tan lines on my arms and legs are certainly there but aren't distinct lines and all my arm and leg hair is blond.

Physiologically one of the biggest changes has been the growth of veins in my legs. I now have pretty sizable veins to carry more blood to my muscles, especially my calves. My arms and chest have shrunk since the beginning but have been at a steady state since about MT.

BIKE
The bike has certainly see the wear of 5400+ miles. The "new" wheel on the back has performed great since Ann Arbor and these fantastic tires held strong to the end, not having had a flat since Detroit. They have some micro cracks so I'll replace them when I get back but they have been pretty damn good over the whole run. The front rack is a POS and I arrived with it held together with plumbing pipe, zip ties, and a sock. Ever since the bike shop in Dexter, MI when the guy adjusted my rear derailler I haven't been able to keep the 11 (the smallest cog) from skipping so I haven't been using it. After tightening the cleat on my left shoe I haven't had anymore trouble uncoupling and both shoes and pedals have worked splendidly over the trip. The bottom bracket still clicks nut thankfully it was able to hold out until the end.

GEAR
After 92 days of use some of the gear has taken a beating but all has mostly survived very well. My sleeping pad has been completely flat upon waking for over half the trip now but it's helped me adapt to sleeping on harder surfaces which will aid my future backpacking. Its stuff sack is a sad scrap of fabric now and I can pull the pad out of the hole in the bottom. My cookset fared pretty well except the plastic lid which I slightly melted and warped on the gas grill in Iowa and then again melted while cooking in Ontario.
My phone's hard case cracked a couple weeks ago but it still fits and has protected the phone very well.
My camera has been amazing but did suffer a small chip out of the plastic corner, hopefully it's still waterproof.
The panniers and handlebar bag have been bombproof and will last me many more trips.
Both of my cycling shorts are starting to fray on the edges of the pad, one has a loose loop of thread that I'm amazed has lasted this long without tearing the whole pad apart so they won't be used for much longer.
Of the three pairs of socks I've been using only the pair I don't ride with has survived, the other two have lost all elasticity and are in a landfill somewhere on the East Coast.
I had to do some filing on the tent poles when they started to gall but other than that and the elastic replacement in WA the tent has been dependable and comfortable.
The sleeping bag has been great but the waterproof stuffsack has seen some wear. I've had the waterproof membrane facing out the front of the bike because it's bright orange but that probably wasn't the best idea since now the sun has degraded the fabric and that area of the sleeping bag has been damp after the past couple downpours.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Upstate NY was beautiful and had wide shoulders on the roads but there was quite a bit of debris. I rode past thousands of small pieces of broken glass and was surprised to make it through the state without a flat. There were also more bugs here than anywhere else, especially small spider that like to get into everything.
VT and MA were the most beautiful since the West and had a lot of little state forests and parks.

Day 92: FINITO! (kind of)

Just a quick couple things:
Although I'm now finished, stay tuned for another day or so since I'm putting together a summary by numbers post of the entire trip.
Also, even though the biking is done I still have to get back to the Bay Area. I'll be hanging out in Boston until 8/15, then going to NYC with Steph and will be there until 8/20. Then I'll bus or train to Philly to meet mi amigo Ariel and the plan is for me to buy a cheap car. Ariel and I will then travel down the East Coast and down to New Orleans where he'll fly back and I'll continue back solo through the Southwest. I haven't decided how to document this but I'll keep the blog updated ever couple days or so with the adventures of the drive back.

Now to the finale of the biking trip:

Steph arrived around 8:30 in the morning and was completely surprised to see me. I caught her up on my scheming and what had actually happened over the past couple days and we had some food and relaxed. Since she took the red eye to get out here I let her nap for a bit while I caught up on some things and then we planned the day and figured out where I should go. I pulled on the jorts and rode the final 11 miles of this trip to the beach next to the University of Mass, Boston. I left the panniers off the bike for this final lap and it was amazing the speed I could make without all the weight.

Once at the beach I'll admit it was a little anti-climatic, especially after watching some Olympic glory recently. There was no great fanfare, no crowd of cheering onlookers, not even a big final push for the day. Without the panniers I looked like a regular bike rider out for a day's ride and didn't attract any conversation. It was just Steph and myself walking out to the water, but that was perfectly fine. I dipped my front tire, poured out the small bottle of Pacific Ocean water I had carried 5,432 miles since leaving, and we sat down on the sand. I shed several tears as we hugged and then shared a bottle of Korbel Champagne that Steph brought. Some people might have been let down by the seemingly lackluster finish, but it was great. This trip started with a small gathering at Goat Rock State Beach and then ended with a smaller gathering on the beach near Joe Moakley Park. But what really mattered was the all the miles, adventures, and challenges that occurred between these two oceans. It was a trip about the journey not the destination, and what a journey it was!

We left the beach and I ride to International Bicycle Center where Babe is now resting until Thursday when he'll be boxed up and shipped home!

One this is for sure, this trip has reinforced a sense of adventure in me and I'm excited for future tours, definitely some kayak/canoe camping, and exploring new places. Most of the time going forward I'll do this trips with friends to have that companionship and the fun that it brings. But I'm glad that this trip was mostly solo. Sure there were lonely times but I found that a single person tends to be more approachable by strangers than two or more. There is a sense of vulnerability in the solo adventurer that invites the charity of others which has been a fantastic element to this journey.

Throughout the entire trip some of the best memories I have are of the great people I met. Many helped me, some were simply very kind, and nearly all were supportive. However one thing I did come to notice which had been hidden from me before this trip is how many people are moving through their days in a blind haze which I came realize about half way through. It was easy to distinguish these people since I would be standing right next to them with a bike loaded down with God knows what, and not even a hint of recognition from their eyes as to the adventure that might be occurring right next to them. And I don't expect every single person to see me and start an enthusiastic conversation, I myself saw people who were obviously on an epic journey and elected to stay in my chair either for my own reasons or because they were clearly occupied with something else. But it became clear to me that so many people are moving through one errand or chore after another with their blinders on, like a plow horse doing its thing the going back to the stable.

In my riding I had to become more observant so I didn't miss street signs, get hit by cars, etc, and I think it helped see that in others as well. If you are awake to the liveliness around you and you interact with it as some people did with me I can guarantee it will make an impact on you, almost always positive. Each person who said hi or honked or gave me a beer or some charity made my travels that much better. As Michigan Dave said to me my first morning in NY, "My life is better for having met you." I believe this is one of the best compliments a person can receive as it shows you made a positive mark on someone else, and to all the people along the way who have shown me so much kindness, I am unequivocally better for having met you all. Also an enormous thanks to my family and friends who have helped and supported me along the way, beers on me when I return!

Day 91: Rainy Day in Mass.

The morning started slow and leisurely until the sky threatened me with a few drops. I scrambled to pack up the tent and then was on the road. I've always loved cranberry anything and was curious about the bogs they're supposedly grown in. Having a full day to ride only 45 miles to Newton I took a detour to the Carlisle Cranberry Bog. There aren't many in this area of the state and this one was part conservation land, part bog. I rode around a little but unbeknownst to me you won't see actual cranberries until September so they just looked like wetlands. I read some of the plaques and got back on the road to Chelmsford for lunch.

The sky has looked like a storm for the past couple days and now it decided to unleash. It was warm so I didn't get out my coat and instead enjoyed the downpour until I got to a sports bar and had some food and a couple beers while I waited it out. The next stretch was into Newton and I was able to take a couple bike trails but it was raining pretty much the entire 25 miles to Ben and Danielle's place. I could tell I must have been quite a site to many of these people in their vehicular cages. I was riding in pouring rain with a ton of stuff, and enjoying it! I was also reminisce They were already gone when I got there so I let myself in, dried off and cleaned up, and ordered some Chinese take-out. For some reason I had been craving it the past couple days and it was great to lounge in a warm house with good food and be able to watch some of the Olympics. You might think it would be hard to be so close, only 10 miles, to the finish and wait for a day until Steph gets here and it was. But it was hard because now I don't want the glory to end. I really do miss my family and friends and I'm extremely excited to hang out with them, but I'm also definitely going to miss the riding and exploring. I talked to Steph on the phone and it went very well, me choosing my words carefully about her going "there" in the morning and how will she get to "their" place from the airport. Surprises are exciting!

Day 90: The Law Man Says...

Waking up in a beautiful state park is always a joy and starts the day off right as far as I'm concerned. It was a slow and relaxed packing and eating and eventually I was on the road passing the two private campgrounds I had considered yesterday. Having seen these somewhat sorry affairs now compared to my site last night I vowed to have my last night of camping be at another state park, the goal being Pearl Hill.

I stuck to the Mohawk Trail through Shelburne Falls where a side glance as I crossed the river piqued my interest. I turned around and walked up the the Bridge of Flowers which is a walking bridge with a full flower garden on both sides of the path the entire length of the bridge! It was in full bloom and I smelled the roses and enjoyed the amazing display of dahlias, daisies, and hibiscus that were literally bigger than my hand. It has been these gems that I randomly find in towns that excite me about the possibility of each new place I see.

I continued through Greenfield and compared the topo map to Google's biking route suggestion. Sure enough the biking route was going to take me right over the top of a sizeable hill instead of the near route around. I did my own routing and got on Route 2/2A. This was a busy highway but I've been on the interstate with cars going 75 so this 55 was small potatoes (what does that idiom even mean??). My goal was a Subway in the town of Orange but when 2A split from 2 I took the wrong option and didn't realize it until I was too far past. I pulled off to a gas station for a Gatorade and banana instead of a sandwich and ended up talking to a few motorcyclists. One of them asked if I had been hassled by the "staties" since biking on the highway was prohibited. Prohibited? I hadn't seen any signs but be said it was probably because I entered in more rural and slow Greenfield. At this point I wasn't close to any other side streets so I got back on and saw the warning sign about walking, biking, and horseback riding. All I really needed to do was ride this for maybe 8-10 miles until the next significant exit when I could get back onto 2A.

I got probably 3 miles when a statie going the other way flipped around, flashed the lights, and pulled me over. I was two days away from finishing this ride and now I get pulled over?! He came out tough with the bad cop routine saying he'd have to give me a $90 ticket or a date in court. I feigned the ignorance which I'd truly had not long before, saying in many other states I'd ridden the highways but soon decided to keep my mouth shut as he took my license to check me out. He came back with the good cop side and said, somewhat surprised given my vagabond appearance, that I had no criminal record so it would be a shame to start one with a "stupid thing like this." I thanked him but he wasn't quite finished.

As it was illegal to ride or walk on the highway I could either wait for a tow truck to haul me off (which probably wouldn't have been free), or walk to the next exit on the other side of the guardrail. I hoisted the fully loaded bike over the rail and began pushing it through the weeds and dirt. I had to haul it for just under half a mile, at one point having to hoist onto the highway and back over to get around a massive bush that blocked all the level terrain next to the steep hillside. I finally saw a side road and elected to make for it instead of trudge another mile like this to the actual exit. One more fence stood in the way but soon I was back on pavement having no harm done except for being filthy and getting a hole torn in the leg of my shorts when I scraped the guardrail.

I proceeded to reorient myself and was soon riding 2A towards Fitchburg. When I was getting close my spirits rose at the unexpected smell of mash and sure enough I was riding by the Wachusetts Brewing Co. I stopped in for a couple free samples and had to pass on the tour, but was now ready to finish the day. When I got to the grocery store in Fitchburg I talked briefly outside with a man about touring and his former bike shop. When I came back out I had a tshirt of his bike shop stuffed into my helmet. Since he had just been out doing errands this man must have literally given me the tshirt off his back! I laughed and decided to keep it, it makes for a good souvenir and I'll wear it once it's washed.

I finished the ride up to Pearl Hill and set up camp in another beautiful state park. I made a tasty meal, had a Sam Adams, and did some reflecting of the trip and the fact that this would be my last night camping on this amazing journey. It is a shame there weren't more parks along the ride since the beginning and end of this trip have been so enjoyable when exploring them. It seems like ages ago when I was arriving near dark on the CA coast and exploring each park in the morning with glee. I settled in to enjoy the quiet night before the excitement picks back up in Boston.

Surprise Surprise! Now to Correct Some Lies

Ok I have to correct a couple of white lies and omissions from the past few days. The original plan was for Steph to fly in to Boston early on 8/11, go to her cousin's in Newton to rest and get ready, then meet me as I rode onto the beach in Boston having come from a final day's ride through eastern Mass. But I was ahead of even an easy schedule since getting back into the States and wanted to see her as soon as possible since it's now been five weeks since she left South Dakota.


I contacted the cousin's and they gave me the okay to stay at their place by myself Friday night (they were going to be out of town) so I could be there when Steph arrived in the morning to surprise her. This all sounds well and good but I talk to her quite frequently as well as to some of you, and there's even a GPS tracker on my blog. The "technical issue" was me disabling the tracking a few days in advance so it wouldn't be obvious how far along I was. Then with Steph I had to pretend the hills in Mass were going to be far more difficult than they actually were to justify the slow progress I was seemingly making.

I have to apologize to the reader that my posts have been delayed and lacking some locational clarity. I'm sorry to mislead you but it was worth it!


The update:

Day 89 was short at only 56 miles and the amazing state park I was at was called Mohawk Trail State Park near Charlemount. Now I'll upload the last two days and get on the bike for the last 10 miles!

This is of Steph after seeing me come out the door. I wish I hadn't fumbled with the camera and could have gotten that first shot because I've never seen eyes so big with surprise.

Day 89: Gorgeous Mountains in VT and MA

The morning was pretty standard and soon I was on the road for Massachusetts, home of the Berkshire mountain range. There's also the massive Quabbin Reservoir in the middle of the state so I could either take the northern or southern route. Despite Google Maps suggestion of the latter, it seemed straighter for me to try the former so that was my goal.

Once I got onto NY-7 I saw Romano again! I pushed to catch up with him and we ended up riding the next 10-15 miles together. He is an inspirational guy and is raising money for their organization FRANK.org for a couple of leukemia patients. He's been touring since '89 so we talked bikes, adventures, and philosophy while rising and falling in the foothills. He was the first bike tourer to see games at all 30 MLB baseball stadiums and has done several tours in areas I covered on this trip. We finally parted as he was headed for Montpelier and I needed to track east, but I hope to connect with him on the east coast or in Monterrey next year when he starts rowing to Hawaii.

Vermont wasn't on the original plan but it was the best way around the first range in MA so I spent a wonderful 30 minutes cruising through the SE corner. By the way Massachusetts, you have the lamest welcome sign of the trip so I tried to spice it up. Now in MA I stopped along the Hoosic River to eat my snacks and enjoyed the cool water. The scenery here, pretty much the entire day, has been truly beautiful. There are mountains covered in vivid green trees and bushes and everything is lush and wild countryside.

As I left the area I came across my first real mountain since South Dakota. I was pretty nervous that my legs might have atrophied a little but I started and was happy to find I could complete the entire 1200 vertical foot climb without stopping. Once at the top I took in the view but quickly started to descend. Without a climb like that there's no equivalent descent so I haven't had a good downhill for about a month either. Pretty soon I saw a sign cautioning steep grade and turns, and along with the fresh pavement that my tires were rolling on, caused me to let out a whoop, pull on a smile, and lean down on the bike. I took the turns sans brakes and it caused memory flashes of similar descents in the great states of the West.

Down at the bottom I came to a state park I had seen on the map. My goal was to keep going to the next commercial campground since it was farther and now only 4:30 but the park was just too beautiful. I could deal with a little bit longer day tomorrow so I stopped, paid the $14 instead of $26 at the next campground, and set up camp. I took a dip in the cool waters of the river running through the forest and prepared the basic meal that I had thankfully stocked up on just in case I couldn't find a store. The past few days and especially today have brought me back to the wonder and glory of the beginning of this trip. Riding through breathtaking mountain scenery, climbing until my knees are covered in drops of chin sweat then descending in a rush of wind, and camping in simple but beautiful state parks. A week ago I was ready to be done but now I'm really going to miss it but it's okay knowing the fun I'll have in the next few weeks and touring again in the future.

Day 88: Last Canal Day

Waking up at the lock was the first foggy morning I've had in a long time and it was a beautiful sight from in the tent with the mist lolling about on the water. I took my time and eventually the sun came out which allowed me to stretch out the tent and footprint to dry before packing them up. I got back on the trail and headed for Albany. I was pretty zoned out most of the ride, just enjoying the scenery on what was now mostly paved trail as I neared bigger cities. Eventually I hit Schenectady and left the trail for State St, then zoned out on that routs as well since I didn't have any turns for 10-15 miles and it took my right to Albany's Capitol Square. I did notice, however, the drivers becoming less patient and I had to watch my mirror a little more.

Once in the Square I did some mapping and enjoyed the respectful tranquility that comes with most capital areas, except for when a bird poops on your arm. Thankfully I have my trusty Smangin' USA handkerchief! I took some pics and saw The Egg which is a performance hall, then also noticed a fellow tourer.

Romano and I started talking and I found out he's on a 7 month self supported tour to reach all 50 capitals plus DC by human powered means and will be the first ever to do so. He started in Juneau on April 25th, I ran into him here in Albany onthe capital #20, and he expects to reach his final mainland capital, Phoenix, around Thanksgiving. And how will he get to Honolulu? By rowing a solo craft from Monterrey, CA to Hawaii next June! This man's journey is incredible and I wanted to hear more but we both had to start figuring out camping spots. I rode up to Waterford along the Hudson River to the beginning of the canal system. Here a visitor center volunteer pointed me to a patch of grass when I asked about the free camping advertised on the website. They also had free public showers at the facility, which were fairly clean and guaranteed that there must not be any homeless people here since free public showers would never work in a city like SF. And in fact a maintenance guy informed me that they "had a couple guys" a few years ago but they left. I guess there's no interest by the vagabonds in this village which is the oldest incorporated village in the U.S.

I made use of the visitor center's balcony to cook on, listen to music, charge gadgets, and enjoy sunset over the canal. With the past couple of days I have to say the Canal Trail is my favorite of the trip. The Trail of the Coeur D'Alene was better maintained and more beautiful, and Mickelson was more beautiful, but this trail is nearly four time longer than either, has several locks with free camping, and even skirts along some major cities, allowing me to detour a few blocks and get a beer or groceries and then keep going. The trail still needs to be completed since it jogs on and off roads once in awhile but being able to take it across the entirety of upstate NY is pretty phenomenal. I'll be sad to leave it tomorrow, especially since it means I'll have to ride the hills which the canal has allowed me to avoid.

Technical Difficulties, Again

It seems my GPS tracking is having some issues and won't show my location. I'm trying to work it out but not spend too much time on it. I'm on pace to hit Boston midday on August 11th which will be Day 92. Be patient friends, the end is near!

Day 87: Equipment Failures, Culinary Triumph

I heard some rustling early in the morning and saw Nick and Brad packing up at 6:30. I was still pretty much asleep, let alone packed and fed so I didn't bother trying to time it with them. It would be nice to ride with them but Brad is shooting for Gloucester on Thursday which is two days faster than my goal so we would have been on a different pace anyway. I slept some more, ate and packed, and left around 10:30. Not too far into the ride on the trail I heard a familiar rattling but had never figured out what it was. I also noticed my front rack leaning forward more than usual so I stopped to investigate. To my frustration I found that one of the bars securing it to the frame was broken! I've always known it wasn't the best rack since installing it, and by Missoula it had sagged and I was able to straighten it by hand (not a good sign) so I shouldn't have been surprised. But this close to the end?! I made a shabby splint using duct tape and a stick that didn't last longer than 5 minutes and just kept going to the next town.

In Utica I stopped at Nail Creek Brewing for a couple pints and a panini, then walked over to the hardware store. I ended up getting two small pieces of tubing and some zip ties to act as a sturdier splint, and at this time also noticed that the other side was cracked nearly all the way through. The rack has two attachment points on either side so if one on each side is broken it will pivot, and my goal was to splint the broken legs to keep that pivot from happening. It seemed pretty sturdy and I started riding again, getting only 4 block before it leaned over so far as to push the fender onto the tire. The zip ties simply had too much stretch and flexibility to them so I ran a chain of them around the top of the rack and looped it around the frame. This prevented the pivot but caused the zip tie to rub against the frame every time I turned the wheel and wear some paint off. I have three pairs of socks, one since the beginning of the trip and that pair finally started to slide below my heel today. Since they were now garbage I wedged one in between the frame and zip tie, the other quickly saw the trash bin. This contraption seems to be working, I'm now just crossing my fingers that it can make it another 5 days. It seems as if the 5000 mile threshold was the breaking point for a few things.

Back in decent shape I started riding along the Canal again. I was informed at Nail Creek that this area (Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Utica) is known as the Rust Belt due to the once great industry and shipping that occurred along the canal to support the building of NYC among other areas, but was now struggling. That was fairly evident in the suburbs of Utica. The city itself seems to be having a renaissance but the outer areas have seen much better days. CAUTION: The following paragraph is likely to make your mouth water, it is recommended that you not be hungry while reading this. I finally got to camp at Lock 15 in Fort Plain. There are a few locks along the canal that provide free camping so I was going to try this one out. A trip to the grocery store provided me with the means to a feast and I set up camp and lit up the single-use size bag of coals in the stand-up BBQ next to my table. The meal that resulted from this was hands down the best of the trip. The store had single bottles of microbrews so I was able to finally enjoy a couple tasty IPAs at camp. I bought a small container of bacon and sour cream potato salad, then placed a halved bell pepper, two halved peaches, a salmon steak, and a personal size apple pie on the grill. The pepper was sweet and warm but still with a satisfying and juicy crunch. The salmon was the best fish I've ever prepared, the rub giving a caramelized sweet and spicy shell to a meat that was perfectly cooked through. It actually made me exclaim "wow!" at the first bite. The potato salad had a tasty balance of wholesome with some salty and smoky from the bacon. The pie was now warm and had a crumbly struesel topping and the grilling brought out the sweet flavor of the ripe peaches. I've always loved cooking and to make this happen for myself while touring and after such a long journey was an instant highlight of the trip.

I finally settled to bed with the stars above me having left the fly off, and laid down to rest after a superb evening with just the peaceful sound of water spilling over the dam nearby.

Day 86: Fellow Tourers and the Peace Run

I made breakfast and packed up quickly with the threat of rain on the horizon. I don't mind getting wet myself, especially since out here it's a warm rain, but breaking down and setting up a wet tent is about the most miserable thing I have done on the trip. I said bye to my neighbors and rode into town to visit the Women's Rights National Park. It was a pretty moving set of exhibits, located in the chapel that served at the meeting room for the very first Women's Rights Convention. This town is where Elizabeth Cary Stanton met Susan B. Anthony which kick started their friendship and partnership in the struggle for rights. Being a guy but also just a person living in a modern society where most (sad that I have to say "most" and not all) people have equal rights it can be hard to understand what it must have been like. But the exhibits painted a good picture and I said a silent thank you to those pioneers for their contributions which have ultimately shaped the lives of so many of the strong and wonderful women I personally know. I finally got on the road and had decided to change plans again and try out the Canal Trail. This meant riding due north about 10 miles instead of east, but it ended up being well worth it. The trail is mostly hard packed dirt and gravel and meanders alongside the Erie Canal and other waterways. The great aspect of riding next to a canal is it's almost entirely flat and the beauty of riding along water is pretty fantastic. I came across Kim and his wife, two daughters, and nephew who were riding from the Oregon coast to New Hampshire and were trying to make it by soccer tryouts this coming week. They seemed a little stressed with the deadline and the heat was pretty rough today so I passed them up and kept going, crossing the 5000 mile mark not long after!

I had looked up a deli in Syracuse and was riding along Genesee when I saw a guy running with a torch and a "World Harmony Run" running jersey. After tagging along with him to get the scoop I found out the general mission of carrying the torch across the world in an effort to promote peace. When the support van showed up they handed me the torch and took a few pictures, check it out on the website http://www.worldharmonyrun.org/usa/news/2012/week15/0805! It was pretty amazing stumbling onto this and holding the same torch carried around the world and also held by the likes of Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela. They switched runners and I headed to the deli in a sort of glow.

After some food I continued on the Canal Trail and eventually made a stop for groceries. I went inside having seen the dark clouds coming, and when I came out it had started to sprinkle. I got on the bike with only 7 miles to ride and within 3 block I was stopping under an overpass amidst a complete downpour. I covered my saddle and actually put on my rain jacket. I was a little cool but I felt I needed it more for the bright yellow visibility since it was raining so hard I could barely make out cars a few blocks away except for their headlights. I turned on my taillights and after looking at the horizon and seeing no break from it, decided to go get soaked. If the storm wasn't going to quit then neither was I. Within 5 minutes of this sudden downpour half of the lane was a puddle so my shoes were soaked through instantly but I kept pushing hard after seeing some lightning and hearing a few claps. I could see a few people huddled under awnings, obviously taken by surprise at both the storm and this weirdo riding a bike in it, and I put on a big grin at how ridiculous this was.

Of course by the time I got to Verona Beach State Park the rain had stopped and had I waited in the grocery store for 15 minutes I would have been fairly dry. Oh well, so it goes, I got a nice spot and set up camp, showered, and started preparing food. As I was getting my corn in the pot I saw two other tourers pull up in a spot near me. I had seen Nick and Brad in Buffalo but we had only exchanged a hello. They were headed east but took the Canal Trail the whole way so I didn't see them while I was down near the Finger Lakes. They had picked up some beers and I had a tallboy myself so we sat down on the beachfront bench at sunset and shared stories over brewskies for the next hour and a half. Nick started in Washington and has been taking the Northern Tier route most of the time, and just met up with Brad in the middle of the country. They were great guys and it was a lot of fun to compare trips. I concluded the night with a late dinner and settled in having thoroughly enjoyed the entire day and its experiences.