Day 79: Nice People in Brantford

As I was hurrying through breakfast and packing I heard a dog come sniffing the outside of the tent and the owner promptly but quietly call him back. Remember, I was in a very public place and in plain view of one particular trail so it made me a little nervous to find out that more people use it than I guessed. I made it out of there quick but never had any trouble. After washing clothes at the ballpark I rode down to Port Stanley which was recommended by the couple on the ferry. It was a cute little town and would be a lot of fun to hang out there on the beach. Alas, it was the morning and I had some riding to do so I ate at the cafe and got back on the road. I made a few pit stops in St. Thomas and Tillsonburg to check my map with some free Wi-Fi but kept eating my own snacks and the "dirty-ass" carrots I picked up at the grocery store.

It was a long day of riding but I started to see more scenic countryside starting in Scotland on the new Rail Trail there, including huge tobacco fields and historic kiln houses. This trail led into Brantford and I began looking for a bar where I could ask some people about camping in the area and get a beer. I couldn't figure out why but very little was coming up in searches for a pub or bar so I gave up and got a smoothie. My latest search for a campsite proved fruitful so I rode down to Brant Park where although the fee was a steep $35 it was worth it to not have to worry about run-ins, take a shower, and listen to some music at night.

As I was about to leave the entrance kiosk a woman and her two boys started talking to me about the trip. They were really excited for me and had all sorts of questions for me, including if I had started growing this beard when I started. I explained yes and the reason why and one of them even said it looked good on me! Well it's one of the first times I've been told so and I assured him it would be the last but thanks for the compliment. Another question was how far I rode today so I looked down and saw 99.45 miles! I knew it was a long day but didn't realize that long. Yesterday I rode 98.8 miles and today I would top 100 by the time I got to my site. They weren'y particularly hard days but given my nervousness about stealth camping I was on the road early each day so it gave me quite awhile to knock out the miles. I found my site and started to set up when a man and his 3 year old daughter, Phil and Emily, came by to chat having seen me ride in on the bike. They invited me over so after my dinner I joined them at their campfire for more talk and a slice of cherry pie! It has really great to have such an interactive and encouraging night after the past couple so I'm now a little refreshed and ready for Toronto tomorrow!

Day 78: Long Rural Ride

I woke up early, not knowing if there would be any apple pickers y upset with me, and was headed to Wallaceburg by 7 am. I had breakfast at Tim Horton's, the Canadian coffee chain, and used the WiFi. I also made use of the bathroom and washed my riding clothes from yesterday, hanging them to dry on the panniers. After some small talk with a few folks I was riding down through endless rural countryside. There were a lot of corn and soy fields and a few tiny communities where my highway intersected another main road. I eventually headed southeast and ended up and Rondeau State Park where I charged my phone, had lunch, and enjoyed the views of Lake Erie. I got back on the road and headed toward Port Stanley though I was skeptical I could make it. A snack break at the Tall Tale Cafe let me regroup and do some thinking. I figured I would push for Port Stanley but keep and eye out for stealth spots on the way.

Sure enough I happened on the Fingal Wildlife Conservation Area which is a beautiful maze of trails that cut through what used to be an old air force base. All that remain are pretty much concrete slabs in some spots and I rode through the entire reserve. Unfortunately I made the mistake of riding down a walking path and had a rough time with massive roots. To make it worse there was no breeze in these forested foot paths and the mosquitoes and flies were out early and had one mighty feast on my behalf. I struggled out into the open and rode an extra mile to the nearest intersection.

Just then it started to pour and I got lucky seeing a sign for a community baseball park. I took shelter in the concession stand awning and used the runoff to wet a towel and wipe myself down. I found the men's bathroom to be unlocked and finished my cleaning in the sink.

Once back at the Conservation Area I set up my tent on the concrete slabs of the old firehouse. Since I'm not damaging any plants and I donated $5 at the entrance box I'm hoping that these two things will keep me out of serious trouble if someone finds me and complains. My tent wasn't visible from the road or main trails but anyone walking down this particular trail will walk right past my highly visible tent, which is exactly what happened when a couple at sundown came by. I was already inside and prepping for dinner when I heard them coming. Their conversation paused but I could see them keep walking so I'm crossing my fingers they see the bike too and realize I just needed a place for the night and don't call any authorities. At this point it would be pretty rough to have to pack up and add to the 98 miles I've already done. It's late now so I should be fine, I just hope nobody hassles me in the morning and I can make a clean getaway!

Day 77: Into Canada, Again

Andy had to leave for work at 8 am so I got up and rode to the nearest diner for breakfast. I killed some time between the Royal Oak Diner and Panera Breads doing some writing until REI opened. I got three backpacking meals, a couple snacks, and a new Light My Fire spork since mine broke the morning of the racoon/skunk fiesta. Then I started riding and eventually stopped at a park in New Baltimore to check out Lake St. Clair and ended up eating at Subway in Marine City. I made a last call to Steph since I won't have cell service across the border and rode down to the ferry.

After checking out the schedule it started pouring with some of the loudest thunder cracks I've heard, as if somebody was lighting M-80s above my head. I lounged in a newly opened coffee shop and waited a little bit until the storm cell passed, then out came the jorts and I took a picture of the only welcome sign in the area. If you remember, there wasn't a Welcome to Michigan sign when I came over from Wisconsin and there wasn't one here. Not even a Welcome to America! I boarded the ferry in my jorts, which was really just an open platform that they squeezed cars onto and filled the gaps with people. I met a nice couple who gave me some great route suggestions for the next few days and the 20 minute ride only cost me $1. As I was debarking a woman in the car next to me gave me a map and her two kids asked me for an autograph. I'm pretty sure that's the first and probably last time I'll be asked for an autograph so I laughed and signed the envelope they provided. At customs the officer asked me a few things about my trip, how much money I was carrying, and what I had been using for protection. I declared honestly and she ended up confiscating my pepper spray! When I asked where I could get some more she explained that in Canada it's illegal to have items to be used as self defense such as a gun, knife, or pepper spray, even a baseball bat if the intent is self defense! I can understand the need to reduce firearms but pepper spray? I asked her what I should now do if a dog attacks me and she said "kick it". I haven't needed the mace yet but there have been a few close calls with dogs so I'll just have to be more alert and hope for the best.

Once I took my Welcome to Canada photo I started looking for an impromptu campsite. I knew there were no campgrounds nearby so I scouted local parks and yards. I was surprised how well maintained all the yards were though many were kind of bland without any bushes and just big lawns. The parks were also landscaped in this manner and I got a little nervous about finding a hiding spot before dark until I came to an apple orchard. I ducked in, walked to the couple trees in back, and after assessing my visibility smashed down some tall grass and set up camp. I was still a little nervous about stealth camping since this is only my second night but you can tell from the picture that I was pretty well concealed. I quietly thanked the farmer for the apple I snagged, made myself some dinner, and finished reading Dracula before calling it a night.

Day 76: Taking a Chance on Detroit

I woke up at 10 am since Raul was leaving about then to make it to the free Mayer Hawthorne concert in a couple hours. I was tempted but didn't have a good place to stay between Ypsilanti and Detroit if I couldn't make it to my next destination. He rode me to downtown "Ypsi" and we parted ways. I thanked him for the couch space and the fun night and got some breakfast at a great little coffee shop, Beezy's. Now full, I found the nearest bike shop that was open to get the spoke replaced that popped coming into Ann Arbor yesterday. My searching resulted in Tree Fort Bikes and they were fantastic! After looking at my single walled wheel and being surprised when I told them it had lasted since Missoula, over 2000 miles ago, they all suggested a new wheel. The cheap wheel I had was getting too stressed and causing spokes to break, hence the recent flurry of them. After looking through their inventory one of the guys just gave me a nice double walled rim of his! It's used but still quite a bit more durable than my current wheel so I gratefully accepted and was only charged the $17 to install it, adjust breaks, etc. To add to that I got some great advice about riding into Detroit. I really wanted to see the city but not if it meant I couldn't do it safely, and I had heard a lot of discouragement along the way. One of the guys used to live and bike in Detroit for quite awhile and showed me a good route. Every time I stop in a bike store it shows me how much I still need to learn about repairs. Perhaps after a couple more of these trips I'll have it down.

Confident in my coming day I now started off for the Motor City. The ride along Michigan Ave was fine and I had three people talk to me and cheer me on. One lady, Kecia, even turned her car around and took a picture of me and some general info for her blog, which she writes as ladysixspeed, which is also her Twitter ID. I was almost into the city when a rusty nail found its way into my rear tube, my first flat since Rapid City with Steph. I hope the money that's not being spent on street sweeping is instead going to jobs programs and razing houses but I wasn't too upset since I had been flat-free for 24 days, my best run so far. Along the way in I passed through Dearborn and the Ford headquarters and saw several abandoned buildings. There were some that had windows busted and graffiti, others looked like they would collapse any minute, but I didn't see a lot of sketchy people drifting about and never felt unsafe. Once downtown I rode to the Riverfront Trail which was recently completed in 2004. The pathway is beautiful and sitting right along the path is also the GM building which is home to a lot of cafes and shops. The general attitude of all the people hanging around was delightful and I had a great time riding up and down the Trail. I also sat in the park on Woodward and watched some of the setup for a free concert that night and did some logistical planning for Boston. I wanted to see the concert but still had to leave Detroit via bike. I had a safe ride in but didn't want to press my luck riding through the dark so I left, regretting that I missed the show and also the Motown Museum that I found out about too late.

The ride north on Woodward was fine but I was glad to be doing it in daylight. Highland Park was the worst area I saw and I made sure not to stop there for anything. There were now dozens of abandoned and dilapidated buildings and more nefarious looking fellows standing around. I was on a six lane road with a lot of traffic and again never felt unsafe but I did put my pepper spray in my jersey pocket for quick access. I finally made it up to Andy's, a friend of my sister's that I had met a couple years ago in Toronto, and cleaned up in his apartment. Andy, his roomie Kevin, and I went out for BBQ where we had a couple orders mixed up by the staff and took the food over to Dragon's Mead Brewery. The beer and food were good and when finished we drove back to their place where I was lucky enough to have a couch for the second night in a row.

Day 75: Ups and Downs to Ann Arbor

This post will be a longer one but it being one of my more wild days I hope it will keep you entertained.

3 am wake-ups are almost always a sure sign of an interesting day to come. This wake up came in the form of raccoons digging into my trash from last night's meal that I was too lazy to throw out. I thought fine, let them fuss with it, at least it's just trash. After 30 minutes I heard a bit of a different noise and realized I forgot my brand new box of oatmeal packets and they were tearing it up. I threw some clothes and shoes on, shooed them off, and cleaned up my mess. With the oatmeal now in the tent I tried to go back to sleep. I heard another rustling, this time right by my head, and shined my headlamp out to see a skunk! I dropped below the tent mesh and slapped the ground and tsk'd a bit until it scurried off. I was sure to follow it with the light to see it off, but pretty soon it came back with a buddy and they wandered the campsite. Getting sprayed by a skunk would be sure to be the worst thing to happen on this trip so I layed there nervously for another 45 minutes listening to skunks patrol and raccoons fight each other.

Thankfully I was able to go back to sleep and get some more rest. I awoke and made some food, then replaced my chain which has been overdue. It wasn't until I left camp and heard an odd noise that I realized I routed the chain outside of the derailler's metal tab instead of inside it so it was rubbing. I stopped to break the links and reroute it when a biker, Todd, stopped to chat. He was excited about my trip and I encouraged him to try it sometime. He tried to help a bit but we realized I would just need to pop a pin out so he headed home and I continued. I was struggling to get everything lined up when reinstalling the pin and after at least 30 minutes ended up breaking my chain tool. When Rick and Cindy stopped in their Expedition during their day of Jehovah appointments I took them up on a ride to the nearest bike shop. They were really nice and made sure the Dexter bike shop had what I needed before leaving.

Jeffrey, owner of the bike shop, was also very nice and got right on the spoke repair and fixing the chain. He gave me a couple discounts on parts and services and it was a great experience. He also pointed me towards Ann Arbor and after a bit I was finally in town. Ann Arbor was 20 miles from my campsite this morning but I didn't make it until 4 and was now starving and mentally drained. More than a couple people recommended Zingerman's Deli so I got a sandwich there and a few samples of the wide variety of cheeses, breads, and treats they sell. The sandwich was fantastic but for $15 I could have gotten two Paseo's sandwiches in Seattle.

Next I found the local FedEx and got the care package Steph sent me. After a rough day this was exactly what I needed to cheer up. There was a beautiful card, photobooth strip of pictures, new toothbrush, snacks galore, and homemade cookies from her and her mom. I dried my cheeks and dug into the cookies, enjoying half of them before packing the goodies away and exploring U of M.

The campus was one of the more beautiful I've seen, especially the exquisite Law School Reading Room. It was here that I took stock of my sleeping options and decided between Motel 6 or some stealth camping. A guy at the local sports store pointed me to Bird Hill saying I could find a good hiding spot there so I decided to go for it, but after a beer. I sat down at Ashley's, widely considered one of the best bars in town, and looked through their 70 taps.

Refreshed with a beer I began talking to the bartender and patrons near me. Rachel gave me a couple Boston recommendations and soon I was chatting with Raul who has been hooked on biking since losing 50+ pounds when he started last year. We chatted through another beer and eventually he volunteered his couch for the night. My chatting had paid off and we rode to his place in Ypsilanti where I showered and we headed out with his friend Gino to a local bar with the best happy hour I've ever seen. 25 ounce microbrews were $3.25 every night from 10-12! We played a card game, Shithead, where there are no winners but one shithead, and made our way through three of the mugs before calling it a night.

Getting back we watched a little women's Olympic soccer and listened to some Black Joe Lewis before my head hit the couch cushion around 3 am. It was a long and crazy day but I was happy it turned around and became a great one. I've had a few days recently that were just so-so and I was starting to really look forward to Boston but today was a good reminder of why I wanted to do this trip in the first place. Ups, downs, highs, and lows, they all make wonderful memories and keep the trip exciting.

Day 74: Humdrum Day Through Lansing

The morning in Ionia was pretty typical, I enjoyed some mango and berries with my oatmeal and started towards Lansing. I had tried to contact YoungSeob, the Korean man and his family that I met in Spearfish since they live in the capital. They were supposed to arrive in Lansing that morning so when I got there later in the day I gave him a call but couldn't connect. After yesterday's late night I was a little tired all day and kind of dragging, and I was a little concerned about daylight I had left so I didn't push the effort too much.

I had some quick food and a flight at Michigan Brewing Co which was fine. They had a some interesting sounding beers like a Blueberry IPA and Key Lime Wheat so I gave them a taste but was disappointed in the lack of flavor. Sometimes breweries do a great job of trying new things, and sometimes they don't taste any different than the other beers they have. I was starting to feel the late night when I left, and it wasn't great highway riding so it was even more frustrating when I heard a spoke pop in Howell. I continued on figuring I could get it fixed tomorrow in Ann Arbor.

After grocery shopping and getting a good campsite at Bishop Lakes State Recreation Area I set about preparing the best meal I've had camping this whole trip: fresh carrots, sliced tomatoes with crumbled goat cheese, chicken pesto pasta, a 500 mL box of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a bar of dark chocolate. It was a routine 85 mile day that gave me a little chafing so I was glad to finish on a high note and get some sleep.

Day 73: Into Michigan

Waking up at 3:30 am is never easy but I managed and soon Brian and I were on the road after saying goodbye to Linda. I got one last glimpse of the Polish Moon as we entered Milwaukee, which is the clock face on the Allen-Bradley building. It's the largest four sided clock in the western hemisphere and it's named for when the building was staffed with Polish immigrants and they would look out of their apartments and always see this giant "full moon". Brian and I parted ways and I thanked him for the hospitality and generosity that he and Linda showed me the past several days. It was great being driven up in the morning, although it meant I wasn't able to get a picture of the IL state sign since I was on a bike trail when I came in. Oh well, this trip is for me, not charity, and this plan worked out the best.

The advantage to such an early morning is that I got to see my first true sunrise of the trip. It rose over the lake just as the ferry was getting ready to take off. The swiftness with which it came out of the water was a good reminder that it maintains that speed all day and in fact days go speeding by and I should waste not a second. I tried to nap on the ferry but couldn't and after some food and coffee I was ready to roll when we landed in Michigan and the Eastern Time Zone.

There was no state welcome sign so I proceeded to the beach to get a look at the dunes. I hopped into a port-o-potty to change into my biking shorts and heard a strange noise. Looking down there was a snake in the corner, tongue flicking, hissing at me! It scared the hell out of me and I ran out, thankfully still in clothes. I snapped a picture so if anyone has the time and curiosity I'd like to know what kind it is and whether it's poisonous. Not wanting someone else to go in and get bitten I made a couple calls. Coincidentally a port-o-potty cleaner showed up just then to swap the units out and said the snake had been there since Friday, three days ago.

I continued on my way, got some snacks, and was soon cranking down the Musketawa Trail, glad for some exercise. It didn't take me too long to get to Grand Rapids which seemed like a fun city. I had some food and good beer at Founders Brewing Co and continued, at one point riding with a local biker for 7 or so miles. I resupplied groceries in Ionia and made my way to camp. On getting to the front desk at the local campground the owner, his wife, and another employee were sitting there talking and we chatted about my trip. One of the first questions I got was, "Do you have a gun?" No I don't have a gun, why would I need one?? Well they seemed to think it wasn't safe out there and I thought it was odd that there was this sort of general fear. I've heard about the Michigan militia but I hadn't come across this type of attitude yet.

Either way I thanked them for the $5 discount they gave me and set up camp. It was a late night as I got in at dusk but I made a tasty dinner of chicken pasta with corn and fruit and cottage cheese for desert. In walking back from the bathroom in the dark I startled something to my left. All of a sudden some creature came sprinting towards me, ran into my foot, and took off into the grass on the other side of me! I only got a glimpse but it may have been a rabbit or weasel or something similar. I've been reading Dracula recently, he who can summon all the foul beasts to his command, and the run-ins with the snake and now this creature had me jumpy for sure. But I made a couple phone calls to catch up with people and finally got to sleep at 1 am.

Health Check: Mind, Body, and Bike After 10 weeks

It's now been over 10 weeks since I left and this will likely be the last checkup until the finale.

MIND
As I near the end I've started thinking more about what comes next. Some of that has been centered on the near term such as getting a vehicle and traveling the East Coast and the South. Other times I've been occupied with what to do for a job when I return. Go back to my previous employer, to the friends and familiar work? Or try something new, and if so in what field? I've been spending more time thinking of these things but not getting much further so I try to keep myself busy and push these thoughts away since I'm no closer to settling them until I myself am settled back in the Bay. Mentally I'm ready for this last stage until Boston, and excited to see friends again when I get back. It's been amazing so far and I'll continue to live the rest of the trip to the fullest but I'm also thinking of the fun to be had after.

BODY
My body is very comfortable on the bike at this point and I've had no big issues recently. My neck is still a little sore in the mornings but it fades away typically early in the day. My first day in Michigan gave me some chafing since I pulled my short legs up a bit to work on my tan lines and the loose fabric chafed my legs. So tan lines it is! I had some soreness in my left knee awhile ago but I tweaked the angle of my shoe cleat and it went away pretty quick. I've adapted to the heat and humidity of the Midwest fairly well and other than sweating a lot I'm comfortable.

BIKE
The bike has been doing great and I've had no issues recently other than a couple broken spokes in Decorah. I've also not had a flat since Rapid City with Steph, which has been over two weeks now! And after writing this I slapped a tree, figuring that knocking on a wood wasn't quite good enough. My thighs rub the sides of the saddle just a little but it's been like that since WA when I forgot to cover the leather overnight and it soaked in the rain, then deformed a little when I rode. I'll try and form it back a bit when I'm done with the trip but it's been okay for now so I'll leave it be. I'm a little nervous about the bottom bracket since it was clicking in WI but it's stopped recently so I'm just hoping it'll last another 1000 miles.

GEAR
I finally sent back my air pillow with my dad, and the stuff sack with clothes seems to be a bit better for my neck. Everything else is working pretty well and I'm generally past the trials and experimenting.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
I've stopped seeing the pink pavement indicative of local quartzite as I saw in WY through IA. Instead I've been seeing a lot more insects. There are little flies and crickets and spiders everywhere so I have to be a lot better about zipping my tent up.
Iowa had the worst roads by far. They were cracked laterally with no paved shoulders, and had a frustrating tendency of turning into dirt roads out of nowhere.
I'm expecting some more daytime showers here in MI bit so far it's been pretty dry and good for setting up and breaking down camp.
I've been surprised since WY to see so many motorcyclists riding without helmets. To give you a sense of how many, I'm now actually surprised to see a biker WITH a helmet!
I saw some ditchweed (looks like marijuana and grows wild) in IA but that was about it.
On some of th longer days where I'm pushing hard, I can really tell just how much my legs are working. They are so swollen with blood that when I cough I feel the pressure in the veins of my thighs.
Overall there have been some truly gorgeous stretches of highway and I'd be lying if I said I didn't strongly consider stopping in the Flint Valley of MT for good. The 70 acres going for $389k was so tempting but I was able to get out of the clouds and keep riding. So many of the cities and parks I've passed through have been so appealing, it's been a lot of fun to explore.
In the Midwest I've had a lot of rolling hills. While the up and down is frustrating and is surprisingly hard work, it isn't too bad. I'm just glad I have the shifters integrated into the brake levers. I can't imagine moving my hand down to the top tube or the bar end every time I need to shift on these hills.

Days 71 & 72: Lounging in Lake Forest

After last night's breaking and entering Dad and I were both pretty beat so we got a late start, and he would be leaving early the next morning so it wasn't going to be a late night anyway. We both lazed around a bit and I did some work on the computer updating pictures and the blog. After awhile we decided Chicago wouldn't be on the agenda and instead went into town for some flowers for Brian and Linda. We also decided to catch a late afternoon showing of the Dark Knight Rises. Itwas a good movie and fun that we got to see it on vacation since Dad, Nat, and I saw the last one when it came out on vacation in Colorado. Back at the house we made a good dinner using some of Brian's smoked chicken and baked a small pie we bought at the local bakery, then made it an early night.

The next morning I woke up to see Dad off at 4:30 am and then, being awake, did a little more computer work. I caught another hour or two of sleep then started getting ready to ride up to Milwaukee. Brian and Linda got back earlier than I thought so we talked about the past couple days and weighed my options going forward. If I left today I could catch onle last of the easbound ferry runs, those being at 6 am, 12:30 pm, and 7 pm. That would put me in Muskegon at 10:30 with a 6 mile ride to camp in the dark. If you're caught up on my blog you know I've done that before but each time it's been less than enjoyable. So Brian volunteered to drive me up the next morning and after weighing a little more I took him up on the offer.
With the rest of the day now free I finally got a chance to fuss around with my GPS data I've been taking this whole trip. Although I wasn't able to upload the data to this blog yet, I did get some fun info. While riding with Steph a guy had asked how many vertical feet I expected to climb over the trip, and I was left completely clueless. Perhaps 100,000 over the whole trip? Well up until now, having ridden just over 4000 miles, I've climbed a total of over 155,900 feet! It was fun to see the elevation plot and I'll try uploading all that the next time I get a computer.
Brian showed me around Lake Forest and all the mansions there, then we walked the beachfront. We met up with Linda and they took me out to Mexican food nearby which was delicious. We got back, had some fun talking about and listening to music, and then I got to bed early with the daunting 3:30 am wake up on my mind.
It's been a great break and now I'm ready to hit the road again. I had hoped to see a few more things in Chicago and perhaps the Miller or Pabst Brewery in Milwaukee but the way things have gone haven't worked that way and it now gives me an excuse to visit both cities again. I am so grateful to the Martinats for their hospitality and everything from dinner to lodging to great company and conversation. I now begin my last stage of this cycling adventure, I have just under three weeks until Boston and I'm excited!

Day 70: Touring Chicago, More Blues

After the late night yesterday both Dad and I were crawling a little. We got up in time to say goodbye to the Martinats before they left for a wedding, then we gathered ourselves to go back into Chi-town. I've heard over and over that the Architectural Tour is well worth it so we gave it a shot. There are a number of tour lines but we opted for Chicago Line tours and the tour was fantastic. We rode up and down the north and south forks of the Chicago River, as well as the main section that empties to the lake. I'm used to seeing the skyscrapers of San Francisco, but the Chicago downtown makes SF look like a toddler. The boat passed by high rise after high rise, as well as shorter but larger footprint buildings, as we were informed about the architectural as well as general history of Chicago. To hear about the Great Fire of 1871 and the pollution of the river and how these and many other factors have shaped the architecture was fascinating. We left with a much greater appreciation for this great city where the skyscraper was born.

We wandered down Navy Pier which reminded me a lot of SF's Pier 39. There were similar vendors and restaurants and altogether not that interesting. Next stop was Millennium Park where we watched kids splashing around in the fountain, had some fun taking distorted pictures of ourselves in The Bean (a giant reflective metal bean shaped sculpture), and enjoyed a free concert put on my the symphony and choir.

A quick stop for some Thai and Filipino food and we were ready for some music. Buddy Guy's Legends club was at the top of the list so we grabbed a beer and enjoyed the opener. The place was a lot classier than last night's club but still good music so none of the rest mattered. The headliner was John Primer who is a bit of a legend himself, having played with many other greats including Muddy Waters. After a bit Buddy himself came up on stage, had a shot, and did some chatting singing to John Primer's background tunes. He knows how to please the crowd and had us all laughing with his banter and lyrics.

Dad and I eventually left, got some ice cream, and finally made it back home around 1:30 am. The deal was that the dog sitter was going to leave the key outside for us but when we got there there was none to be found. We thought about calling our hosts but it was pretty late at this point. After searching around we found an open window, popped out the screen, and I was happy to set a foot inside and not hear an alarm. It was a long and fantastic day and ended up with a bit of adventure for ourselves before getting to bed around 3am.

Day 69: Chicago Cubs and Blues

We all got a little bit of a slow start but not too bad. Linda made a fresh quiche which was incredible, and we headed downtown to Wrigley field with full bellies. Brian, Dad, and I hit a couple bars before the game, getting a feel for the area and some drinks. Tailgating isn't allowed at Wrigley so the surrounding bar scene thrives. Pretty soon we walked over to the stadium, knocked on an unmarked gray door, and were handed our tickets. Inside the stadium I reveled at the old centerfield scoreboard that's still operated by hand, the gradual slope of the first section of seats which we were sitting in, and the general classic feel of the park. The Cubs squeaked out a win so that was a nice bonus to the game, and the three of us had a great time.

Brian then left Dad and I with the car and we drove to downtown Chicago, toured the area a bit, and came back up to the north side. We stopped at Gino's East for some deep dish pizza and enjoyed the classic Chicago dish. The funny thing about some food staples like this is you can get fantastic deep dish pizza anywhere that they're willing to spend the money, time, and effort to make it good. But getting a dish in its land of origin always seems a must and we enjoyed it mightily. Next we walked down to the lakefront to check out the skyline and then to Kingston Mines blues club.

We paid what now seems like a very cheap cover and walked into the funky joint. The place has the feel of being there forever, which we were reminded of when the MC, Frank Pellegrino, notified us that he's been doing this for decades. The opener, Joanna Connor, was one helluva surprise. She looks a little frumpy but damn, once she opened up that guitar we were floored. Her and the band tore through the blues effortlessly but with complete devotion and deep emotion. They had a couple covers that were great but overall just loved to jam. I sat there for the full hour set not being able to straighten out the corners of my mouth and get the goofy grin off my face. The headliner was also good and we had a fantastic time with a couple beers and fantastic blues.

Once we left, around midnight, it was time for a snack. I've been told by just about everyone to check out the Weiner Circle for a hot dog and the chocolate milkshake. Mind you, the milkshake isn't even on the menu, but we approached the counter with confidence and reassured the cashier that yes, we wanted the $20 milkshake. When our Chicago-style Charcheddar dog was ready we came up and were greeted with smashing pans, flashing lights, and one of the cooks doing a dance that has to be seen to be truly appreciated. That was our chocolate milkshake and although I've left out some details, suffice to say it was worth the $20. Well this left us wanting an actual milkshake so we got a couple to go at a diner nearby and headed back to Lake Forest for the night.

Pics update

With the use of a computer here at Brian's I was able to add pics to Days 64 and 65, as well as one of the Mississippi at sunset to Day 63. Hope you enjoy!

Day 68: Ballgame, Exciting Ride to Lake Forest

Waking up in a basement was quite a bit different from what I'm used to, zero natural light. But it allowed me to sleep in until about 8:30 for which I was immensely grateful. Mary showed me around the kitchen and I made myself some eggs with onions and peppers and then showered and cleaned up. Tom's parents, sister, and nephew came over and we all "tailgated" at the house before heading to Miller Park for a Brewers game. They had an extra ticket and I couldn't believe my fortune that they asked me to go. I tried to catch a game in Seattle but the timing didn't work out, so it was great to see a ball game after almost 10 weeks on the road.

Miller Park was a beautiful ballpark on this sunny day and the game started out exciting with some runs and errors. After awhile I wandered the ballpark, grabbing a brat and a couple beers and enjoying the walk. I eventually settled back into my seat with the family and we all bit our nails (mine were not quite as chewed down, being a Giants fan) as the Brewers nearly lost their lead, but they squeaked by with a win.

We got back to the house around 5 and I was a little nervous about the 53 mile ride I had ahead of me down to Lake Forest. I had pre-packed my bags and rushed to change clothes, finally thanking them for their amazing hospitality before I left at 5:30. Steph's electro-pop mix started me off with some good motivation as I pumped along on the mostly bike trails that would take me all the way. One downside to bike trails is that there are a lot of bikers, and having a fully loaded touring bike attracts a lot of attention. A fellow rider, Kurt, joined me for about 10 miles until the IL state line and we chatted about touring and such. It slowed me down a few mph but was nice to ride with someone again.

Once I crossed the line into my 11th state it started to rain a little. I put on the clear lenses and kept pushing until it cleared up. Evidently it had rained quite a bit in front of me since the limestone path had large puddles all over. Normally I would be a little more cautious with puddles and raise my feet up a bit but I knew that I had a dry house to stay in tonight and just pushed right through, enjoying the feeling of the warm water spraying just past the fenders and onto/into my shoes. I called my dad and his friends, Brian and Linda, who we'd be staying with and learned that it was pouring ahead of me. I could also see it pouring behind me so I kept riding in this little calm cell almost all the way to my destination. The whole time I could see the nasty, south-moving storm coming behind me, with lightning flashing in my rearview mirror, so I had a lot of incentive to keep pushing.

At one point, 10 miles away, I ran into two girls with rear panniers and stopped to chat. They were on their way to Seattle via the Northern Tier route, and had just started today! I was so excited for them and we talked a little about my trip and any tips I might have. They have an aggressive schedule, needing to ride 70-80 miles every day, so I wished them luck and we parted ways. Around this time I got another call from my dad. At first I was a little bothered since I knew where I was going and just needed to ride. We talked just a little before ending the call and after not too long, out of nowhere, I heard a yell from a car near the bike path. The three of them had come to find me and asked me if I wanted to put the bike in the car or unload some gear. At this point I was so close I refused and kept going. Soon after parting it started to rain, then pour, then the sky was filled with thunder, lightning, and more water than my headlight could easily cut through. I slowed down a bit and finally saw the taillights of my hosts just off the trial. This time it was a welcome sight since I probably would have missed the bike trail's exit to their house, and I joyously followed them the next few blocks to their house. I had to remind myself that despite my earlier frustrations, they kept calling because they were worried about me, which is never a bad thing.

I dried off and showered, then feasted on the beer/ribs/corn/caprese/berries/cookies that Brian and Linda had waiting for me, while I shared stories with them and my dad. I remember a point on the road tonight when I had hung up with them after hearing their concern about my riding at night, and thinking, "I'm fine, THIS IS WHAT I DO!" And truly, this is what I've been doing for almost 10 weeks now; waking up, eating, riding, eating, riding, eating, riding, eating, going to sleep. But it's always nice to have loving friends and family who help out on the way and I'm grateful for them tonight.

P.S. This last picture was taken while riding in the pouring rain on the bike path. All I had was my headlight so I let the shutter open for 30 seconds as I rode holding the camera. Perhaps this is what it looks like to the ghost Robert McClory when he rides his bike trail at night.

Day 66: Leaving Madison, Lakeside Camping

I was quick about packing up since I wasn't fixing breakfast. I rode back into town to the Johnson Public House cafe which was highly recommended on Yelp. The coffee was some of the best I've ever had, and I enjoyed the breakfast sandwich and fruit-granola-yogurt while I did some blogging. Then came the moment I've been looking forward to for quite some time: Trader Joe's! All along the west coast it was my go to for delicious trail mix, oatmeal, and dried fruit as well as affordable chocolate and unique treats, but the last time I was able to shop in a TJs was west of the Cascades in Edmonds.

I had looked it up and Madison, being the largest city I've been in since Billings, and probably the most progressive since Missoula, was home to a branch. I shopped around and it was extremely difficult to restrict myself to just some dried fruit and candy since I'm already well supplied with everything else.
I finally left and enjoyed a flight, wrap, and salad at Great Dane Brewing, where it was the first time I had to moderate the number of tasters since they had 17 beers on tap. I settled for eight, filled up my belly and water bottles, and then attempted to fix the clicking I've been having as I pedal. I'm afraid it might be the bottom bracket going bad but was hoping it was just a crank arm being a little loose. I took out the multitool I've had since college, inserted the #8 Allen wrench, and stepped down on it. I've done this before but this was the last, as the plastic gave way and the tool shattered in two. Thankfully I was a few blocks from a bike shop where they told me most likely it's the bottom bracket and I was also able to get a new tool, this one with a corkscrew!

Next it was time to do some riding so after a few miles and turns I got on the Glacial Drumlin Trail. It's crushed limestone as well but in better condition than Military Ridge. I cruised along for quite awhile before coming out onto Rock Lake where I stopped for a snack and to dip my feet in. The rest of the trail was uneventful but beautiful, and I was soon turning off for a six mile jaunt down to Ottawa Lake State Park. I got a site near the lake and found I had my own water access trail, so after setting up the tent I walked down with the Modelo tallboy I had picked up on the way and sat in the warm water, jersey and all.

Overall it was a great day and I was happy it could end like this with some relaxing and not pushing into darkness as I've done before. This will most likely be my last night of camping for nearly a week since I have places to stay in Milwaukee and Chicago so I enjoyed sleeping under the stars with the fly off.

P.S. I've found a workaround for the technical issues but it's time consuming and fickle so hopefully I can get it to work every time!

Day 65: Madison!

Breakfast and breakdown were quick and I was back on the Military Ridge Trail which from Mt. Horeb on was in better condition and also had many more people enjoying it. I noticed a vehicle on the trail in front of me, which is illegal, and bought a day pass at the nearest kiosk. Sure enough when I later passed that vehicle a ranger asked me for my day pass so I was glad I spent the $4. The ride into Madison was fairly quick and I talked to a couple people along the way who helped me navigate and gave me attraction suggestions. There are a lot of bike trails within and around the city, and even more bike lanes so I could tell Madison is a very bike friendly city. The signage was great and pretty soon I could navigate through the city fairly well.

My first stop, given the heat of the day, was Michael's for some frozen custard I was told to get last night. It's a bit like soft serve ice cream but a little thicker and creamier, kind of in between soft serve and gelato. Next I wound up to Capitol Square. The square is about two blocks by two blocks with the capitol building in the center, and art vendors were on the streets around the square for the city's Art on the Square event. I grabbed a beer and wandered around, and was blown away by the number of booths, variety of mediums, and quality of craft. It was probably good I'm traveling by bike or I would have left the festival a bit poorer. Another festival was going on a little ways away so I rode over to Fête de Marquette, a food, music, and arts festival to celebrate everything French. The food, music, and beer were all good and I eventually left for some water.

I had no idea but Madison is located on an isthmus between Lake Mendota and Lake Monona so there is plenty of swimming and boating going on. I found a relatively inactive dock and sat down to dip my feet in and cool off. Once I'd relaxed a bit I continued the whirlwind of activities: snacking on local cheeses, crackers, and beer from Fromagination while on the Capitol lawn, tasting a beer sampler at Capital Brewing, and enjoying a Babcock Dairy Orange Frozen Custard with Chocolate Chips on the Memorial Union Terrace at UW. The terrace was great, it's lined with brightly colored tables and chairs along Lake Mendota and they serve food, beer, and ice cream to the public. I'm not sure why all colleges don't have some sort of public eating space like this, it really brings the city onto campus and gets everyone intermingling.

Somehow at this point I was hungry again, but also shockingly beered out. I used another recommendation from last night and got a gyro at Parthenons which was delicious. Since it was just about sunset I hopped on the bike and took off for camp. I had thought about setting up camp when I got to town and changing into regular clothes, but I had just jumped right into tourist mode and didn't want to take the time of riding around the lake. Also, it was so hot and humid that I was constantly sweating and couldn't stand the thought of putting on a cotton tshirt so I changed into my quick-dry shorts and left my jersey on. Now that I was back on the road I was pushing to get to camp before dark when I noticed a campground at a different, closer park than I had planned. I found out from the host that yes, all sites are $25, even if you don't have a vehicle, and that the park I was planning on camping at doesn't actually have a campground! I was definitely glad I stopped and was soon showered and in the tent.

I think I got lucky through Iowa with the weather but now I'm getting the heat and humidity. I haven't been using the sleeping bag as intended, instead I've been just sleeping on top of it. Why not just sleep on the pad? Well aside from the fact that the pad is deflating overnight and I could use the extra fluff, the sleeping bag absorbs the sweat that pours out all night whereas the pad would leave me laying in a puddle of it. Perhaps a detail you wish I hadn't shared, but this trip has goods and bads and I'm trying to immerse you in this sweaty experience!

Technical Difficulties

I've been experiencing some technical difficulties with the Blogger app on my phone so posts will not have pictures for a few days until I can get to a computer in Chicago and fix some things.

We sincerely appreciate your business will return to normal operating procedures as soon as possible.

Day 64: Thunderous Morning, Fun Evening

I woke up at 7am to pouring rain, flashes of lightning, and loud claps of thunder overhead. The sky was in a rage and it was raging all over my half-ass-assembled tent. At least I was dry inside, but the outside of the tent itself was filthy with limestone sand and I dreaded breaking it down and cleaning up. The weather said it should clear up around 11 so I killed time reading, preparing breakfast, and packing up the inside items. Sure enough the rain eventually stopped and I went about frustratingly taking apart and cleaning the tent. In the process a man, Buck, came over and we got to talking about my trip and his similar rainy camping experiences in the service. He brought his grandkids over and took a picture with me and the bike, although he seemed twice as excited as either of the kids.

I finally got on the road around 12:30 and got to see what a beautiful, lush park Wyalusing is, since I missed it in the dark last night. I headed towards Dodgeville, encountering some serious rolling hills before the road finally leveled out a little. Most of this higher WI country reminds me of my native Sonoma County only with corn instead of grapes. The hills and fields are lined and dotted with oak and similar trees, makes me miss home a bit. But a gentle tailwind picked up so my spirits were rising. A lunch break at Marsden Park in Fennimore was nice but I kept going. Dodgeville was pretty unremarkable as a town so after refilling water bottles I started on the Military Ridge Trail. The trail is crushed limestone, similar to Mickelson, and was mostly gentle slopes. The big difference is that crossing roads aren't blended with the trail well and jolted me around and the trail itself isn't maintained as well, but it's still better than the highway.

I rode Military Ridge for about 20 miles until Blue Mounds State Park where I found the hiker/biker sites. For some ridiculous reason they don't allow bikers to self register at the sites, instead I had to climb a hill to the visitor center. Also, once I got set up I found out the showers are back up the same hill. Why do so many campgrounds put the H/B sites so far away from the showers when they're the most likely campers to use them?! So I rinsed off in the nearby faucet, made some quick dinner, then got back on the bike at sunset. I saw that there was a brewpub in Mt. Horeb, 6.5 miles away, and since I finished eating quickly and the pub was right off the trail I was willing to ride at night on the way back for some beer.

It turned out to be a great choice. Grumpy Troll Brewery had 11 beers on tap so I got the sampler tray with all of them and sat at the bar with an order of their signature chips with shredded cheese and a Gorgonzola dipping sauce. Since I was still in my cycling gear it kickstarted a conversation with a few others at the bar and pretty soon I was scribbling down must-sees, must-dos, must-eats, and must-drinks for tomorrow in Madison and Wisconsin in general. The trio of patrons were great, as was the bartender Tabitha. She and her boyfriend Dan were going midnight kayaking on the Wisconsin River that night and I talked with Dan a bit when he got there. Tabitha bought me a pint for keeping Dan occupied while she finished work and the three of us chatted until 11 or so, when I clipped on the lights and headed back to camp.

I was riding under the stars, feeling a bit of the 60 ounces of beer I had just drunk, and was just plain giddy and joyous about how the night ended. It's fantastic to chat with great people who give me fun suggestions and are so supportive. I got back sweaty and dusty from the trail and rinsed off in the faucet again. Since it was nearly midnight and as far as I could tell there was only one couple in another site nearby, I stripped down and rinsed clothes as well. I figured nobody would just be walking around and rode the last 150 feet to my tent in just my birthday suit before settling in for the night.

Day 63: Decorah Tour and Crossing the Mississippi

The morning started out great with Jim preparing tasty eggs and bacon, along with a spread of OJ, tea, toast, cantaloupe, and blueberries. This is the kind of breakfast that prepares one for a ride! After filling up I took a look at my wheel and realized that I can't fix the rear spokes without taking off the cassette which requires a chainwhip (basically a large wrench with a length of bike chain attached, ie too heavy to carry) so what good has it been carrying extra spokes? We took the wheel down to the Decorah Bike Shop where I discovered there were actually two broken spokes. The repair was quick and inexpensive, and I got a new set of handlebar tape since mine has seen the wear of the road, especially after trying to add the gel inserts. The new tape is really comfortable but once I wrapped the bars it kinda looks leopard spot-ish. Not my ideal color/pattern but damn they're comfy so they're staying.
Jim took me all over town, making for an excellent tour guide. We saw Palisades Park, the new bike trail, the local bald eagle's nest, and Dunnings Springs Park which was absolutely gorgeous. The whole area is part of the Driftless Region where the glaciers in the last ice age stopped drifting, leaving the land more mountainous than similar Midwest areas. At Dunnings there is a rather large spring flowing straight from the limestone cliffs that make for a beautiful scene. We also saw Luther College where Jim and my dad went and were fraternity brothers, and had lunch in the cafe.

We returned to their house, I got ready, and thanked them immensely for their fantastic hospitality. But before leaving Decorah I had to get a flight of beers at the local Toppling Goliath Brewing Co, all of which were delicious. I eventually left town around 3pm and headed for Wisconsin. I was a little disappointed Effigy Mounds National Monument was closed by the time I got there but I did get to see the mock-up eagles nest they have on display which Jim had recommended.
I continued on to McGregor where I tried out Old Man River Brewpub. I guess every once in awhile you get a bad apple and this was it. The food was too fancy and expensive, they only had three of their brews on tap, and when I opted for the soup and salad bar they were out of soup for awhile. The root beer was good but overall the place was a disappointment. I finally left, pulled on my jorts, and biked over the Mississippi River. It was a pretty incredible feeling as I made my way across the mighty river, and to think I got here on a BICYCLE! I stopped on the WI side for a state sign picture and to enjoy the riverside park in Prairie Du Chien at dusk which was a beautiful sight. I made my way to Walmart to resupply some food and finally fuel, and by the time I left it was getting dark with around 8 miles to go.

I crossed the Wisconsin River and immediately had to put my sunglasses on and change to clear lenses because there were so many bugs I could barely see without them getting in my eyes. I had another 5 miles and it included a couple hundred feet of climbing, not a fun activity in the dark. The positive side was that there were a ton of fireflies, which I started to see in Sioux Falls. At first I thought it was a flashlight out of the corner of my eye but soon realized what they were. I got to Wyalusing State Park and set up my tent on a crushed limestone site that was too hard to adequately drive stakes in, which worries me a little with the chance of rain in the morning. But at this point I was too tired and drained. I try to not ride or set up in the dark but sometimes I keep pushing myself to get farther until I find myself in just this kind of situation. It's frustrating and I'm not a fan of it since it still takes me a bit to wind down before sleeping, but at least I made it across the Mississippi and I'm safely at camp!

Day 62: Back to Back to BACK!

I got ready in the morning at a normal pace, using the grill again for oatmeal and supplementing with a V8, raspberries, banana, and half a honeydew bought last night. I broke camp and hit the road at 11:30, not really sure where I'd end up for the night. Ideally it would be Decorah since my dad has friends there I could stay with, but that would be another 100+ mile day and I didn't think I would have the endurance for it.

Starting out didn't help my confidence either as I had a 15 mph crosswind that was slightly in my face. But I pulled out the music and pushed on. The past couple days I've had the iPod set to shuffle all 9500 of my songs and wow does it come up with some interesting stuff, like the Guerneville School WHAT rap recorded by some friends in high school. But overall it helps keep me in the rhythm so I skip songs when necessary and keep moving.

I was traveling along IA-9, which in many places has no paved shoulder, only a gravel one. In most cases all the cars and truck gave me plenty of room, but there were two or three times I could see a semi coming towards me and from behind and knowing it would be tight, ride into the shoulder. One of these safety diversions nearly wrecked me, as the gravel was soft and a couple inches thick. I fish-tailed quite a bit, nearly crashing a couple times, and was able to maneuver the bike back up to the pavement when the truck had passed. I kept going like this until taking a long lunch stop in Osage. Since when does Subway have Powerade in the soda fountain? It was pretty awesome and soon I was filled up and reenergized. Looking at my mileage, it was 4:30 and I had just over 50 miles to go. My body felt okay and I seemed to have the energy so I pushed on.

I've had some hard pushes on a few days but I don't think any lasted nearly as long. I had my music going, the wind had calmed down a little, and all of a sudden I found a bike lane in the middle of nowhere! Iowa has had a few good bike trails, but hardly any bike lanes, and to find one that stretched several miles between New Haven and Ridgeway was truly a welcome surprise. Another surprise was the Confederate flag I saw in Osage, I thought for sure I'd have to wait until the South to see that kind of blatant racism.

A little before Ridgeway I noticed a bit of a wobble in the rear tire. Worried it could be a flat I stopped to check it out, finding a spoke broken. I have spare spokes but I couldn't make Decorah and replace a spoke, there just wasn't enough time, so I pushed on and asked Babe to hang in there for me for the next 40 miles. At this point every bump and dip made me nervous, half expecting the rest of the wheel to unzip at any moment.

I made it to Ridgeway and gave my dad's friend Jim a call. Sure enough I planned on making it to his place and would be there just before dark. I had some quick conversation with a couple guys at the Fireman's Inn where I refilled my water and got a beer for good measure. Upon starting for the last 14 miles I put an 8tracks mix that Steph made of electro-pop and hit the road. She called it the Rolling Hills eMotivation mix and sure enough I hit some big rolling hills but was also motivated. The beats kept me in the zone and feeling like a Machine! Just give me some S&M leathers and the costume is complete (if you don't get the reference look up Brian Wilson and The Machine videos) (that's Brian Wilson the Giants pitcher, not the Beach Boy). I finally came into town and faced the final hill Jim had warned me about. I dropped into my granny gear and started up it, definitely the steepest hill since L&C Caverns, but still had to stop part way up for a quick breath. These legs are doing amazing things but climbing a steep grade after 105 miles is not their forte at the moment. Nonetheless I made it up and rolled into Jim and Diane's after topping 106 miles for the day, my third century in a row! It's unlikely I'll repeat this effort so I just revelled in how far I've come in the last three days and in general.

Jim and Diane made for amazing hosts and once I was showered up Jim and I went downtown for a drink and food, also meeting up with another of Dad's college buddies Kyrl. It was fun to hear some college stories and the conversation and food were great, thanks for dinner Jim! I was actually surprised I didn't eat more than a chicken sandwich, potato salad, side salad, and two pints. Curious, I had looked up a calorie burn estimator and found that me, 175 lbs now, with 60 lbs of gear, riding 14-16 mph for 405 minutes today, burned an estimated 7600 calories! That means that in the last three days I've probably burned over 22,000 calories, a pretty ridiculous number.

I'm looking forward to seeing Decorah a bit more tomorrow and having a leisurely 40 miles ride to the Mississippi where I'll get to camp in a state park along the river in Wisconsin.

P.S. As promised here is the old time photo that Steph and I took in Deadwood.

Day 61: Leave the Lake, Bum a Site

After waking up and eating a couple helpings of the breakfast that Suzie forced on me in the great way that only a mother can do, I looked out at the lake and couldn't resist. Changing back into yesterday's bike shorts I dove off the dock and swam around a bit. It was so nice, I could really get used to this but I tried my hardest to pack up, feeling the need to keep moving. Suzie sent me off with a PB&J bagel, some nuts, and an orange for later. I rode into Milford for some groceries and stove fuel but struck out on the latter, not wanting to buy a gallon when I just need 20 ounces. I had forgotten about a couple souvenirs so I backtracked up to Arnolds Park, then back down to Milford, adding a few miles to the day. Looking at the map the only campground I could find was in Forest City, just over 80 miles away. I had wanted to take it easy today after yesterday's long ride so after leaving town around 12:30 I decided to take it easy. If I make it to camp, great. If not, I'll find some nice person and ask if I can camp in their yard.

Looking at a map it seems very easy to navigate the streets in Iowa, they're almost all in a grid. But actually riding them I found that one paved road would eventually turn to gravel and I'd take a left or right to stay on the pavement. Eventually I figured out that the county roads, designated with a letter and number, ie A34, are all paved but do zig zag a little. After this realization it was much easier to navigate my way on pavement. I rode and rode, much of it very uneventful farm land. Today and yesterday I have started seeing dozens of giant wind mills sprinkled throughout the landscape. Some may think they're an eyesore, to me they have an elegant beauty and are a symbol of progress and a welcome sign of healthier forms of energy. The whole day I had a slight headwind, same as yesterday. I'm beginning to wonder where the notion of easterly blowing winds comes from since I've seen very little of them.

I stopped at Wolden County Park on High Lake and had my snacks. It was a beautiful park and campground and I've found that Iowa has a number of these smaller lakes and parks scattered about which make for great camping and rest stops. I finally made it to 3 Fingers Campground and when the office was closed and I called the posted number, I was told they don't do tent sites anymore. Momentarily disappointed I explained that I was on a bicycle so the proprietor came down and let me camp on the grass next to the office, she herself being a former tourer. The site is fine but the bathrooms are pretty bad, not really needing to upgrade them for RVers. The water smells of sulfur so my clothes might stink a bit next time I put them on after today's rinse. I'll have to share this with Fred so he doesn't eat more match heads, just find a sulfur shower!

With such long rides I have a lot of time to think, and most of it today was focused on fixing a delicious dinner. Not wanting to shortchange myself I unloaded the gear and rode a few miles into town. Inspired by the meal I made with Thomas and his shopping habits, I bought some tomatoes, an ear of corn, and a Bud Light Lime-a-Rita with a yogurt and banana bar for dessert. I also got some fruit for the morning. I came back and once settled looked at the odometer. 101.9 miles for the day, another century! For dinner I was able to use the office grill to boil my water, saving my precious fuel and some time. My Fetucini Alfredo with chicken backpacking meal, now supplemented with fresh veggies, was delicious and I enjoyed the beautiful sunset and headed to bed.

Right before falling asleep I checked email and found one from Thomas. He had cable and flat problems coming out of Sioux Falls, ran into Fred again who had similar problems, and ended up staying in Worthington and then Arnolds Park! He asked where I was camping tonight since he's now a day behind me so I told him and wished him luck and to enjoy the park if he can. Hopefully he gets back on track with no more breakdowns.

Day 60: Century to the Roller Coaster

I got up around 6:30, made breakfast, and broke camp fairly quickly, leaving at 8:15. Thomas and I said goodbye and wished each other luck on the rest our our respective trips. I made my way out of Sioux Falls and towards the state line where I saw a marker pointing the way to a tri-state marker. I figured great, I can get two state signs in one shot, but after riding until the road curved into Iowa, never found the sign. Not wanting to miss Minnesota I headed north a couple miles and made my way to Hills, MN and eventually down US 75 where I got my two signs.

I kept a constant push over most of the day, stopping when I needed to for food and water but essentially pushing forward the whole day. I think my riding with Thomas has helped me keep a constant pace since I never wanted to delay him while riding. Another thing that definitely helped was thinking of riding the roller coaster at Arnolds Park. Half the reason for this change of route was to be able to enjoy the lake and park so I wanted to get there with enough daylight. My last put stop was at Vick's Corner store for a Gatorade and a can of beer to go with my snacks. Vick's was a cool little store, looking like it hasn't been renovated since the '50s and just getting by with what it has.

I finally made it to my stop for the night in West Okoboji around 5:15, an hour earlier than I expected when starting, having ridden 103 miles. I stayed with a friend of my dad's, Suzie, and her husband Herb at their house on Lake Okoboji. I had visited the lake during a family reunion in high school and was looking forward to splashing in those waters again. I chatted with Herb and Suzie for a bit then dove off their dock. The water was just as I remembered, shockingly warm. Perhaps it's normal for this area but I'm used to cold west coast lakes so this was a joy. I swam for a little bit then showered and hopped back on the bike. On Suzie's recommendation I ate at the Taco House which was around when her and my dad were kids at the lake. I got the fajita dinner which is a great deal for only $6.

Although most people wouldn't eat a full fajita dinner then jump right on a roller coaster, I didn't hesitate at all. The coaster cost $7 per ride unless you have a pass so I tried it once. After taking a couple pics on the ride and it being AWESOME I decided it was worth another $7. The second ride was even better, hands in the air while it dipped and turned at sunset, the seatbelt keeping me secure the few times I was lifted out of my seat. The wooden roller coaster was originally built in 1927 and was renovated in the mid '90s. It's one of only a handful of pre-Depression roller coasters in the world and is a ton of fun so I was glad I got in a couple rides before it closed for the night.

The coaster was finished off with some frozen yogurt, a Nutty Bar at the Nutty Bar Cafe, and a beer at the bar on the pier. After the ride back I clocked over 108 miles on the bike today. Suzie and Herb let me use the extra bedroom and I'm looking forward to a bed again and the lake in the morning. It's funny how you can have such a fondness for an area through a family connection. I've only been here once before but my dad and his family used to come here all the time, and actually rented the cottage that's still standing next to Suzie and Herb's, seen in the pic of Suzie and me. I've heard such great stories about vacation on "Boji" so it's a lot of fun to visit.