Day 52: Empty Road to Wall Drug

TREV:
One thing I've started to enjoy about the Midwest is the cost of food. While it lacks the flavor I'm used to with our CA diet, $5 for eggs, bacon, and all-you-can-eat pancakes is pretty great when you need to stuff a belly. The KOA offered just that and we both filled up before leaving Rapid, myself laying waste to 11 pancakes. We found a good frontage road and started east for Wall. The wind switched from our backs to across us but at least Steph was able to experience the 20 mph effortless riding that a good tailwind can provide. South Dakota has less than 900,000 people in the whole state and it's evident along I-90 where services are scarce. We stopped in New Underwood for a Gatorade and were disappointed to see that the World's Smallest Biker Bar was closed until the evening.

Another stop near Owanka found us eating snacks on cinder blocks in the shade of the local church. When mapping the next few turns Google Maps said to continue as we were going towards Wasta. "Oh, you mean the gravel road that said No Outlet on it?" Yeah, that one. Too bad I didn't remember seeing that sign after eating when we headed down that road. Two miles in we hit barbwire gates on all sides. I hopped one and looked around to find out that yes, there really was No Outlet. We moped back to the church and headed up to I-90 to get on the interstate.

The downhill into Wasta was great and we got lucky running into the local bar owners who gladly filled our water bottles. Unfortunately dropping down meant we had to climb back up to get to Wall. It wasn't easy but with some motivating music and an energy snack on the way we made up to Wall. We set up camp, cooked dinner, and walked down to Wall Drug to check it out. This has to be the most advertised about stop in the country. I saw my first Wall Drug sign back in Spearfish and they showed up nearly every 3 miles from Rapid City to Wall. I wish somebody had created a challenge for Wall Drug billboards, it would have been nuts. Free Ice Water! 5 cent Coffee! Donuts! Western Wear! Pie! Cafe! As Seen in Better Home and Gardens! Wall Drug!

I would recommend stopping there to see it, especially if you're passing through, for it is a curious place. There are several shops all cobbled into one building, kind of like a mini mall, including a western shop, camping gear, apothecary, multiple souvenir shops, and a cafe. I had a slice of blueberry pie that was so full of corn starch it was more like berry pudding. Steph had a root beer float which was the better call and we perused the shops and filled up on what made them famous, free ice water.

It's interesting to see so many tourists stopping here, I just hope that they're seeing more of the country like our parks, people, and local towns. Wall Drug was fascinating but I'm excited to get out and see the Badlands tomorrow.

STEPH:
I woke up a few times last night to go to the bathroom and also because Trev was snoring (a recent development on this trip, I think his nose and throat must be clogged from inhaling/swallowing bugs) and noticed flashes of lightning.  It was hard to tell if it was raining in the distance or if it was just a heat storm, but I was actually kind of hoping for a little downpour to cool things off.  Some rain would also rinse off our panniers and bikes which have become encrusted with road grime and Mickelson dust.

However, we woke up to another hot morning so I decided to take advantage of the availability of showers to get in one more cool rinse.  Not too long after leaving the campsite, we got on the interstate, an experience I was hoping to miss when planning this trip.  Trev is right, though - the shoulder was nicely paved and quite wide and I felt pretty comfortable knowing he was acting as my eyes in back with the rear view mirror attached to his helmet.

Off the interstate, we had those damn rolling hills the whole way.  Big push UP up up, level out, maybe squirt some water while sizing up the next hill ahead, then whoosh DOWN down down, flatten out, gear down and it's back up... repeat repeat repeat.  Part way through the afternoon I started to develop some weird raised red bumps on my quads. I started thinking maybe it was poison oak (or ivy - do they even have poison oak out here?) but I by the end of the day it became pretty apparent that it has to do with where the sun is hitting me. Heat rash? A weird sort of sunburn? Not too sure but hopefully it will die down over night.

The last hill into Wall had me almost to a breaking point. I think I laid down at one point on a grassy shoulder on the side of I-90 trying to muster the mental and physical power to finish out our 62-mile day.  I know Trev has done a lot more (and wow, I am even more impressed by him now) but it was another personal best for me and I am feeling proud and empowered.  We're going to try to make it an easier day to the Badlands tomorrow, only 35 miles or so.  It would be nice to get into camp a little earlier and have time to just hang out!