Day 53: Badlands, More Like F***ing S***!

TREV:
We tried getting an early start to beat the heat but had to restock on a couple supplies before leaving. Some sunscreen and jerky were accompanied by a donut from Wall Drug that somewhat redeemed the tasteless pie of last night. We finally got on the road expecting a nice but warm 35 miles.

We made it 11 miles to the Badlands entrance kiosk and were invited into the rangers home to refill water bottles. We were aware that from that point on we would have no more filling opportunities until our destination at the visitor center, 24 miles away. Between the two of us we had five bottles of and started our trek.

The Badlands were really incredible and we stopped numerous times at the vista points to take pictures and gawk at the landscape. They've been layering for over 30 million years and started being carved away and eroded a mere 500,000 years ago. The myriad of jagged peaks are layered with beautiful earthy colors and rise up out of flat prairie only to dive back down into steep canyons. Riding through this scenery was truly amazing as we rounded a spire or mound and came out on another gorgeous vista.

After a bit of riding the heat really started to wear on us. We would later find out that the Badlands reached 104° that day and it sure felt like it. The rolling hills also didn't help, making us climb quite a bit. I was pretty sure we could make it with what we had but I've also been riding in hot weather for over a week now and I'm a bit more adapted to it. I could tell Steph was struggling with the heat, totally understandable since she just dropped into this environment a few days ago, so I started drinking quite a bit less water in case she'd need it. The heat and riding was difficult but the hardest part by far was seeing her really struggle. The heat was draining and I tried my best to cheerlead while we kept moving through. Thankfully at one of our stops a minivan stopped and asked us how we were doing and we said sure we could use an extra bottle of water if they had one. He jumps out and slides the door open to reveal five or six cases of water! We took three, had some snacks, and that seemed to snap us back and we were on our way. I also packed most of Steph's pannier weight into my own to help the pace and get us out of the heat.

We finally got to the visitor center and decided to get a motel room to have some AC and be able to shower since the campground was primitive. The town of Interior held both pub and motel so two miles later we were jumping in the motel pool to cool down.

Interior has all of 67 people in it and we walked down A street, seeing only as much as a B street. The Wagon Wheel pub provided a pizza and chicken strips, as well as three cold beers apiece, and we headed back. There was a "City Jail" along the way, just one abandoned cell, and we actually saw a covered wagon being pulled down the street by a pickup. There were even a couple quarter driven bucking horses for kids so Steph took a turn as we both laughed, fondly remembering similar rides as kids.

It was a good end to the day but it was certainly the hardest 35 miles I've had so far. The situation we were in was the hardest of our relationship and was sure to test us, and I'm elated to say that we came out unscathed and stronger than ever. It was great to have the experience but I'll try to keep the riding a bit easier and not during the heat of the day from this point on.

STEPH:
We saw just about every state license plate in the Wall Drug parking lot and a number of Japanese tourists. I guess that if you're driving across the country via I-90, it would be tough to pass up but still, I find it crazy that people flock to such a hokey place. We went,though, so there you go! The employees at Wall Drug were also from all over, one girl working the soda fountain counter was from Slovakia and it seemed like they were probably just out for the summer to work. Compared to the international kids who come to Tahoe or Colorado to work at the ski resorts, I think the Wall Druggers are getting jipped.

The ride out to the Badlands entrance along the highway through Buffalo Gap National Grassland was blustery and hot but it was cool to watch the grasses undulate in the wind. I kept hoping to see a buffalo, but all we spotted were cows.  Right before the entrance,  we cracked up over a sign that said "Caution: Prairie Dogs Have PLAGUE!".  A bit later when we were filling up our water bottles at the ranger's house, we noticed that the friendly man who had invited us in was sitting on his couch polishing or assembling a huge rifle.  Good to know there's someone out there to protect us from the plague-spreadin' prairie varmints!

The 24 miles through the Badlands park were the most excruciating I've ever experienced. At first we were doing okay, stopping to take photos frequently and riding slowly with dropped jaws as we took in the scenery.  The sun beat down relentlessly and each swig of water made me more concious of our limited quantity.  The ups and downs were drastic and probably about an hour after we stopped for "lunch" (beef jerky, trail mix, cliff bars, and water) the heat really got to us, and by us I mean me.  Shortly after we spotted a big horn sheep wandering in a daze along the side of the road, I felt myself getting weak and a little dizzy.

Throughout this trip, my self-control over my emotions has been tested but never so much as in that moment. In a situation like that, feeling completely drained and a little scared about your ability to continue, you want to blame someone or something to take the focus off yourself and your misery. I struggled not to lash out at Trev with a slew of curse words because seeing that it was so much easier for him was maddening, but fortunately (miraculously) I maintained my composure and we were still talking at the end of the day. In fact, I discovered that he is actually a great companion in a tough situation, encouraging but not condescending, patient and helpful.  I don't think I could have conquered that day of riding without him.

P.S. The title is Steph-inspired after frustrated reflection on the day