I'm now four weeks into this trip and it's as good as ever. I was warned in Centralia that a 3-4 week slump might happen and that I should push through but so far nothing of the sort. The rain was a bit of a downer for a couple days but I'm all dried out now and doing great. My fifth week started with more good conversation with Don who also gave me a cup of coffee in the morning. After all the talks with hosts I'm inspired to be one when I'm older. Sherri commented about a hill and I would soon find out the "hill" is a 2000 foot climb. Getting to the top brought on the most unexpected sight, endless wheat fields. The air was filled with the desert scent of sage but there were also lush, rolling wheat fields as far as I could see.
What came along with this area was a vigorous tailwind, the likes of which I've never experienced. It was surreal to come from the mountains yesterday to the fields today and to have the cycling be so different. When riding and seeing the wheat blowing but not feeling a rush of wind I was able to estimate the wind was moving right along with me at 28 mph for much of the ride. There were stretches with tumbleweeds bouncing over the road and into the fields. The wheat rustled and danced, supporting the crowd surfing tumbleweeds, as we all grooved to the glorious wind. My average speed was quick, I came to a downhill with smooth pavement, no cars, and a tailwind, and I hit records speeds which I won't mention to save the worriers at home. Just as I was speeding down the slope it opened up into a massive gorge and I couldn't stop the whooping and cheering, I was so thrilled.
I stopped in Coulee City at Couleegan's Bar and Grill for a beer and a bite. The bartender Jeremy suggested the Broasted Chicken with Jojos, which is basically fried chicken and potato wedges which were delicious, especially when followed with an Iron Horse IPA. I have yet to make a local bar stop that I regret. Jeremy was a perfect bartender, a sociable local, interested in your story and able to provide factoids and discussion about the area your visiting like the train-heist-era bullet holes in the bar. Batteries charged, both literally and figuratively, I hit the road again.
When I got to Wilbur I took status. I'd been riding for just over 90 miles at an average of 17.1 mph and it was now 6:15. I felt good and really wanted that 100 mile day but all my searching couldn't fine a campsite at a reachable distance further down the road. Standing there next to a diner and campground, getting cool in the breeze, I decided maybe it was a good sign that today was done. Although I ached for that century ride, I have to remember that this trip is not about the distance but the exploration between.
The campground had nice, comfortable facilities and the garden burger, raspberry milkshake, and mint chip sundae did a pretty good job of raising my spirits, as well as a gorgeous sunset. To top it off the campground/RV park had a sitting room with a heater and TV so I finished The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde and watched City Slickers. Tomorrow I'll make my way to Spokane and get to do some city exploring again!
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